You don't need rail lube, the wax you put on the string is enough (sometimes too much).
Rail lubes attract dirt and grit which only wears the rail and the string. Parker specifically tells you not to
use it.
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Vortex, Phoenix, Cyclone, single shot rifles and handguns.
Only accurate guns- and bows - are interesting.
I've experimented with a shiete load of rail lubes and found that , for me, on my Recuve and compound CB,the best is a Teflon Dry Lube film spray. It doesn't attract dust mites, hair balls or other unsavory stuff. Once the carrier evaporates, which is within 10 seconds, the barrel is slick as glass. I measured the barrl with a profilameter before and after applying. It last for 40+ shots before you need to re-apply.
Darrel, one essential thing you are not doing with your method is lubricating the string fibers. I prefer Dalton 200 High-Speed Bow Wax and Conditioner. It really does not leave a gummy residue. It is the slickest string conditioner I've seen todate. It also has the right consistancy to penetrate the serving and soak into the fibers.
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OHA Life member, NRA member, DVC# ON 452
I built the CB from scratch, using a barnett recurve prod. The draw is 11"170#. The string is of B50, served with nylon.
The wax is VERY viscouse. Dont I lose much velocity due to it's resistance to the strings movement? ("non-erosive friction"?)
Also: a new and ugly question haunt me: Where the %^&* does the wax/lube go? Why do we need to re-wax every few shots? wax is one of the most stable materials. It doesn"t corode or evaporate. So???
Darrel, one essential thing you are not doing with your method is lubricating the string fibers. I prefer Dalton 200 High-Speed Bow Wax and Conditioner. It really does not leave a gummy residue. It is the slickest string conditioner I've seen todate. It also has the right consistancy to penetrate the serving and soak into the fibers.
Don
I also wax my string quite frequently. I use a high quality string wax and rub it in with a piece of buckskin to heat it and blend it into the string. I use the dry flim Teflon on the barrel.
I built the CB from scratch, using a barnett recurve prod. The draw is 11"170#. The string is of B50, served with nylon.
The wax is VERY viscouse. Dont I lose much velocity due to it's resistance to the strings movement? ("non-erosive friction"?)
Also: a new and ugly question haunt me: Where the %^&* does the wax/lube go? Why do we need to re-wax every few shots? wax is one of the most stable materials. It doesn"t corode or evaporate. So???
Temporarily you can use vegetable oil and bee's wax (50/50). You can order Dalton 200 string wax online. Use silicone spray on the rail. WaX the serving and the string and don't forget the string loops. Anything with wax builds up on the surface. You should wax the serving AFTER every use. Wax the whole string before putting the string on.
It would not be wise to use Break free or anything with a solvent in it. The amount of speed loss is not big at all. Use the Bohning and order something thinner. I recomment Dalton or BCY ML-6. The Excal wax is good too. But so is bee's wax and vegetable oil.
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OHA Life member, NRA member, DVC# ON 452
You don't need rail lube, the wax you put on the string is enough (sometimes too much).
Rail lubes attract dirt and grit which only wears the rail and the string. Parker specifically tells you not to
use it.
Excalibur tells ya the same thing..
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Bowtech Destroyer 350,Elite XLR, Crimson Talon 125's and NAP Bloodrunners also 125 Grim Reapers
String wax for rail
