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Old 03-30-2007, 05:27 PM   #1
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Default Rail Repair

If any of ya'll have an aluminum rail and 10-32 stock screws like Excals, and you should strip one out either by not removing old Loc-Tite or wrenching too strong, I have a heli-coil kit. Fixes ya right up and ya got steel threads to play w/. Be glad to loan it out!
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Old 03-30-2007, 05:49 PM   #2
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Default RE: Rail Repair

Always wondered about those that take their Excals apart and put in a gun case if it would wear in time. Bad thing about aluminum and stripping out things. Not that I'm heavy handed or anything like that.
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Old 03-30-2007, 06:49 PM   #3
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Default RE: Rail Repair

anytime you take screw out and put it back,wood or metal it makes the screw loose over time..many top gun experts will tell you not to remove things so much to clean etc..


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Old 03-30-2007, 07:27 PM   #4
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Default RE: Rail Repair

Thanks Dan for the offer.
Just some info for thos that dont know about loctite...
#1.Red is for bolts,nuts and machinescrews that you dont plan on removeing,it takes heat to remove such items with out damageing theads...It can be done without heat but you take a chance.
#2.Blue loctite is for bolts,nuts and machinescrews that wil be removed on a somewhat regular basis and less chance of any thread damage to said items.(no heat required).
Just a note................Red is hot....Blue is cool.......

forgot to say machine in front of screws opps
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Old 03-31-2007, 06:41 AM   #5
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Default RE: Rail Repair



Quote:
ORIGINAL: Bigg~BirddVA

Always wondered about those that take their Excals apart and put in a gun case if it would wear in time. Bad thing about aluminum and stripping out things. Not that I'm heavy handed or anything like that.
I don't think you will ever strip the two holes in the riser, they are real deep, and are the two one uses to break the bow down for gun case or whatever. The two stock screws are a different matter. I haven't measured, but would guess the rail material is about .100" thick. W/ a 10-32 screw being 32 threads per inch, you only have about 3 threads there to work w/. I'm sure normal people don't have a problem w/ this and rarely if ever take stock off their bow. I was switching stocks around on 3 bows like a kid playing Barbie dolls, which cost me, lol. It burned my butt to pay $30 for the helicoil kit to just use one little spring lookin thread thingy, and there's about 10-12 left in pack. I'd had this same problem once before on this bow and had gotten the hole heli-arced shut and redrilled and tapped it. I believe it's a done deal now.
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Old 03-31-2007, 06:44 AM   #6
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Default RE: Rail Repair

Quote:
ORIGINAL: sproulman

anytime you take screw out and put it back,wood or metal it makes the screw loose over time..many top gun experts will tell you not to remove things so much to clean etc..

When it comes to loose screws, I'll take your word for it!

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Old 03-31-2007, 06:58 AM   #7
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Default RE: Rail Repair

LOL! Loose screws...

I stripped one of the screws that hold the stock too, fixed mine by putting a nut inside the rail, 100X the strength now. Good to know you have the kit for the next time I strip one, it would be a nightmare trying to fish a nut into that part of the rail.
I am not concerned with breaking down the bow, those screws will not strip unless you try to put them on with an impact wrench. I can see that if you did it enough it would eventually wear down the aluminum threads, but that would take a very long time.
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Old 03-31-2007, 07:48 AM   #8
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Default RE: Rail Repair

Dan, if your helicoils pull out I have another fix that is permanent. David, next time you are at my shop ask me about this fix. You'll be impressed!
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Old 03-31-2007, 10:35 AM   #9
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Default RE: Rail Repair

Thank you my friend, but 35yrs of being in the Safe&Vault business, I have just about every kit available and more!
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Old 03-31-2007, 09:17 PM   #10
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Default RE: Rail Repair

ty hopefully i'll never need it....but it's good to know just in case.[8D]
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