New bow hunter
11-29-2014, 06:34 PM
#2
Fork Horn
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Illinois
Posts: 282
I'll recommend the Bear Attitude to anyone who's looking to get started in bow hunting, but you really need to go to a pro shop first. They'll be able to set up a few different rigs for you to try out, so you can see what you like before you buy. Personally I prefer something that's smooth on the draw and quiet on the release. Its not a big deal to me if its not the fastest bow made. Bottom line, go get your hands on as many different bows as you can before you buy. Once you pick one out, its practice, practice, practice. It's gonna take time, commitment, and a whole lotta target practice before you're ready to actually hunt.
12-01-2014, 07:13 AM
#6
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Middletown PA United States
Posts: 3,625
Some bows have a cam that is draw length specific. I would stay away from these model until such time as you know exactly what draw length fits you.
There are a couple ways to measure for what draw would fit you. One is called the wingspan method. To do this you stand erect with your arms stretched out at shoulder height. Measure from finger tip to finger tip and divide this by 2.5.
Another is, with your bow arm stretched out to the side, measure from the center of your breast bone to the crease in your wrist where it joins the hand.
These are about as accurate as any and give you a close approximation of what to look for. If you fall between two numbers such as 28 1/2, then buy a bow adjustable up or down at least an inch. For an initial setting always err on the short side, meaning 28" in this case.
A new bow out this year that's easy on the wallet is the Martin Krypton at $300.
I'll leave draw weight up to you, but don't overbow yourself. In other words, you may find you have to struggle with 70#. If so you may find it better to get a bow that peaks at 60#, which in reality is enough to hunt anything on the North American continent.
Being new, you'll have a lot to learn about determining good shooting form and it's hard to do so if you are struggling with the draw weight of the bow. Remember, shooting a bow is about accuracy. It's not a strength contest.
Another thing I always recommend is to find and join a local archery club. Watch some of the better target shooters and ask if they would help with your form. Most will be happy to do some preliminary coaching to get you on the right track.
Last edited by BGfisher; 12-01-2014 at 07:16 AM.
12-01-2014, 07:34 AM
#7
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 5
Correct draw length is one of the most important things about buying a compound bow. Therefore, you should choose a bow that is adjustable either by changing a module or one having a rotating module.
Some bows have a cam that is draw length specific. I would stay away from these model until such time as you know exactly what draw length fits you.
There are a couple ways to measure for what draw would fit you. One is called the wingspan method. To do this you stand erect with your arms stretched out at shoulder height. Measure from finger tip to finger tip and divide this by 2.5.
Another is, with your bow arm stretched out to the side, measure from the center of your breast bone to the crease in your wrist where it joins the hand.
These are about as accurate as any and give you a close approximation of what to look for. If you fall between two numbers such as 28 1/2, then buy a bow adjustable up or down at least an inch. For an initial setting always err on the short side, meaning 28" in this case.
A new bow out this year that's easy on the wallet is the Martin Krypton at $300.
I'll leave draw weight up to you, but don't overbow yourself. In other words, you may find you have to struggle with 70#. If so you may find it better to get a bow that peaks at 60#, which in reality is enough to hunt anything on the North American continent.
Being new, you'll have a lot to learn about determining good shooting form and it's hard to do so if you are struggling with the draw weight of the bow. Remember, shooting a bow is about accuracy. It's not a strength contest.
Another thing I always recommend is to find and join a local archery club. Watch some of the better target shooters and ask if they would help with your form. Most will be happy to do some preliminary coaching to get you on the right track.
Some bows have a cam that is draw length specific. I would stay away from these model until such time as you know exactly what draw length fits you.
There are a couple ways to measure for what draw would fit you. One is called the wingspan method. To do this you stand erect with your arms stretched out at shoulder height. Measure from finger tip to finger tip and divide this by 2.5.
Another is, with your bow arm stretched out to the side, measure from the center of your breast bone to the crease in your wrist where it joins the hand.
These are about as accurate as any and give you a close approximation of what to look for. If you fall between two numbers such as 28 1/2, then buy a bow adjustable up or down at least an inch. For an initial setting always err on the short side, meaning 28" in this case.
A new bow out this year that's easy on the wallet is the Martin Krypton at $300.
I'll leave draw weight up to you, but don't overbow yourself. In other words, you may find you have to struggle with 70#. If so you may find it better to get a bow that peaks at 60#, which in reality is enough to hunt anything on the North American continent.
Being new, you'll have a lot to learn about determining good shooting form and it's hard to do so if you are struggling with the draw weight of the bow. Remember, shooting a bow is about accuracy. It's not a strength contest.
Another thing I always recommend is to find and join a local archery club. Watch some of the better target shooters and ask if they would help with your form. Most will be happy to do some preliminary coaching to get you on the right track.
Of course archery stores etc, what are some recommended places to get arrows etc for target practice and hunting come that time?
Is the hand trigger a universal fit on any bow or do they make them specific to bow? I have an uncle that uses it and he has recommended it.
I'm glad to know about the weight I was thinking a lighter weight would better suit me before I strain myself. What is the range yds I can expect to see from a bow or does it depend on the bow?
12-02-2014, 10:06 AM
#8
Fork Horn
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Illinois
Posts: 282
Thank you so much for all the helpful advice. I'm glad to know how to better search for me a bow.
Of course archery stores etc, what are some recommended places to get arrows etc for target practice and hunting come that time?
Is the hand trigger a universal fit on any bow or do they make them specific to bow? I have an uncle that uses it and he has recommended it.
I'm glad to know about the weight I was thinking a lighter weight would better suit me before I strain myself. What is the range yds I can expect to see from a bow or does it depend on the bow?
Of course archery stores etc, what are some recommended places to get arrows etc for target practice and hunting come that time?
Is the hand trigger a universal fit on any bow or do they make them specific to bow? I have an uncle that uses it and he has recommended it.
I'm glad to know about the weight I was thinking a lighter weight would better suit me before I strain myself. What is the range yds I can expect to see from a bow or does it depend on the bow?
Arrows can also be acquired at the pro shop. They'll be able to custom cut the shaft to match your draw length. If they don't carry the arrows you want to use, you can order them from several online businesses. Ya good to get your bow set up and your first half dozen or so at the archery shop, so you know what spine and length to get.
Releases are universal, but there are a few different styles to choose from. Again, the benefit of starting out at a bow shop is being able to try them out and see what you really like.
Effective range of a well tuned bow is more dependent on you than the bow itself. I limit my shots to 40 yards and under because I feel that's the limit of my ability. Some guys are comfortable out farther, and some keep it closer to 20. Start practicing and you'll find out what your range is, pretty quickly.
