What do you think of my archery setup?
02-21-2014, 04:10 PM
#1
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 98
What do you think of my archery setup?
I am new to archery hunting and got my first bow in December and am wondering your opinions on my setup?
Bowtech Carbon Knight Bow
Flash Point 2" Rush XL LH 5 pin
G5 Head Lock quiver (6 arrow)
Saber Kisser
Feltcher Peep 1/4"
Paradox Bowsling
True Fire Release HCB-F
I think that is all of the important setup pieces. Thanks.
Bowtech Carbon Knight Bow
Flash Point 2" Rush XL LH 5 pin
G5 Head Lock quiver (6 arrow)
Saber Kisser
Feltcher Peep 1/4"
Paradox Bowsling
True Fire Release HCB-F
I think that is all of the important setup pieces. Thanks.
02-21-2014, 05:08 PM
#2
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: North Idaho
Posts: 1,071
This is personal preference but I like the one pin sights, and I dont have a kisser. I also like the tru-fire 360 release. Not saying you have to get what I get but when you have a bunch of pins mistakes can be made. Kisser adds weight to the string...not really a big deal but I like to keep it free as possible.
Do you have a D-loop? or metal arrow nocs on your string? D-loop is better in my opinion.
Do you have a D-loop? or metal arrow nocs on your string? D-loop is better in my opinion.
02-21-2014, 06:27 PM
#3
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 98
I have a D-loop. For the one pin sights do you just aim a little high and learn how much higher you need to aim to adjust for arrow fall for distance shots? As with the multiple pins you just sight the pins in for the yardage, sighting them in is when you find errors occur? I like the kisser as it helps me know were to draw the string to, its probably not needed for more experienced bow hunters but for learning, it feels helpful. Thanks.
02-21-2014, 08:42 PM
#4
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,903
I don't like kissers, but to each their own. There are more variables that can effect your anchor point than just a kisser position, so keep that in mind.
What rest?
What arrows?
What stabilizer?
Those two things in bold are what I'd put up as important over everything else you mentioned. Quiver, sight, kissers, stabilizer, by and large are personal preference. The rest and arrows are real hardware that mate a bow to an arrow. The rest you've mentioned are simply about mating the bow to the shooter. No matter how well a bow feels, how well you like the sight, or how well you anchor that kisser each shot, if the rest doesn't launch the arrow well, or the arrows don't match the bow properly, you'll never get it shooting well. Can't herd turtles, no matter how many sheepdogs you have.
Bowsling is worthless to me, but some guys favor them. LONG LONG walking, I have it in an eberlestock pack, normal long walking, it's either hooked over my shoulder or over the crook of my elbow. Most walking, it's just in my hand. It's a 4lb bow, loaded, not so heavy a guy needs help carrying it.
Quiver choice these days is almost irrelevant, it holds arrows, and almost everybody makes a good product. Cheap ones will always be cheap, good ones will always be more expensive. As long as it does what it's supposed to do well, quiver choice is personal preference, heck, just buy the one you can afford that matches your bow. You won't be shooting with it in place, so all you need is for it to hold arrows securely, and attach/detach silently. The Headlock is a decent quiver, one of my hunting buddies has one on his Outlaw that I set up a few years ago, and his brother has one on his G5 Rogue that I set up for him this winter. Good as any other quiver I suppose. I have a couple magnetically secured Apex quivers that I like just fine.
I like the Carbon Knight so far, but I don't own one. Assuming it fits you and feels good, then it's the right choice for you. If not, then it's foolish. I'm personally not sure I'd buy a carbon bow just yet, probably wait for the ~Gen 3 versions to come around before I hop on one.
You may find that you don't need a 5pin with that Carbon knight, unless you're shooting a lot more than 5-7grns per pound of draw weight, or you're shooting a LONG ways. 325fps+ bows (real fps, not just IBO rated speed) can get away with less pins. I have a Trophy Ridge V-5 (thinking Alpha, but I'd have to double check) on a Bowtech Destroyer 350, I have 35yrds as my first pin. Considering that the average hunter is only going to shoot 20-30yrds, for all intents and purposes, if I were an average hunter, I'd never need more than just one pin. The others are 45, 55, 60, 65, and 70yrds, even though I doubt I'll ever have a need to shoot that far after deer again. I foolishly bought a 5pin after not being satisfied with 3 and 4pin sights on slower bows before I crossed the 300fps threshhold. A week shooting the speed bow, I was wishing I only had 3pins again.
I've since gone to single pin trigger/dial sights. But they're not for everybody.
To Wilcam's point about metal nock sets vs a D-loop... If a bowtech that got paid for what they do ever puts metal nock sets on a Carbon Knight string, I'd like to meet them so I could slap them in the mouth. Tie on a D-loop, serve it in place, and be done with it.
What rest?
What arrows?
What stabilizer?
Those two things in bold are what I'd put up as important over everything else you mentioned. Quiver, sight, kissers, stabilizer, by and large are personal preference. The rest and arrows are real hardware that mate a bow to an arrow. The rest you've mentioned are simply about mating the bow to the shooter. No matter how well a bow feels, how well you like the sight, or how well you anchor that kisser each shot, if the rest doesn't launch the arrow well, or the arrows don't match the bow properly, you'll never get it shooting well. Can't herd turtles, no matter how many sheepdogs you have.
Bowsling is worthless to me, but some guys favor them. LONG LONG walking, I have it in an eberlestock pack, normal long walking, it's either hooked over my shoulder or over the crook of my elbow. Most walking, it's just in my hand. It's a 4lb bow, loaded, not so heavy a guy needs help carrying it.
Quiver choice these days is almost irrelevant, it holds arrows, and almost everybody makes a good product. Cheap ones will always be cheap, good ones will always be more expensive. As long as it does what it's supposed to do well, quiver choice is personal preference, heck, just buy the one you can afford that matches your bow. You won't be shooting with it in place, so all you need is for it to hold arrows securely, and attach/detach silently. The Headlock is a decent quiver, one of my hunting buddies has one on his Outlaw that I set up a few years ago, and his brother has one on his G5 Rogue that I set up for him this winter. Good as any other quiver I suppose. I have a couple magnetically secured Apex quivers that I like just fine.
I like the Carbon Knight so far, but I don't own one. Assuming it fits you and feels good, then it's the right choice for you. If not, then it's foolish. I'm personally not sure I'd buy a carbon bow just yet, probably wait for the ~Gen 3 versions to come around before I hop on one.
You may find that you don't need a 5pin with that Carbon knight, unless you're shooting a lot more than 5-7grns per pound of draw weight, or you're shooting a LONG ways. 325fps+ bows (real fps, not just IBO rated speed) can get away with less pins. I have a Trophy Ridge V-5 (thinking Alpha, but I'd have to double check) on a Bowtech Destroyer 350, I have 35yrds as my first pin. Considering that the average hunter is only going to shoot 20-30yrds, for all intents and purposes, if I were an average hunter, I'd never need more than just one pin. The others are 45, 55, 60, 65, and 70yrds, even though I doubt I'll ever have a need to shoot that far after deer again. I foolishly bought a 5pin after not being satisfied with 3 and 4pin sights on slower bows before I crossed the 300fps threshhold. A week shooting the speed bow, I was wishing I only had 3pins again.
I've since gone to single pin trigger/dial sights. But they're not for everybody.
To Wilcam's point about metal nock sets vs a D-loop... If a bowtech that got paid for what they do ever puts metal nock sets on a Carbon Knight string, I'd like to meet them so I could slap them in the mouth. Tie on a D-loop, serve it in place, and be done with it.
02-22-2014, 03:06 AM
#5
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,926
Learned long ago
It's what you use and how consistently accurate you are. And with the choices in the market, you may not use what others use.
On my first deer, most archery hunters weren't using the bow I was using, the arrows I was using, the sight I was using, the release I was using, broadhead I was using ,the draw I was using. Saved a little money over the years realizing that.
As for what newbies use, my stuff is too old for newbies to use. Newbies tend to spend more money than I do.
On my first deer, most archery hunters weren't using the bow I was using, the arrows I was using, the sight I was using, the release I was using, broadhead I was using ,the draw I was using. Saved a little money over the years realizing that.
As for what newbies use, my stuff is too old for newbies to use. Newbies tend to spend more money than I do.
02-22-2014, 10:27 AM
#6
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: North Idaho
Posts: 1,071
Single pin has a dial for yards each are different but basically once its dialed in/set up, you set the dial for what yardage you are shooting at and its set.
Quiver off gives more stabilization for me.
Drop away arrow rests are better IMO. Ripcord is a popular one.
also what distances are you planning on shooting a deer at? 20-40yds max would be ideal.
If your peep is placed correctly when you bring your bow up it should be pretty close to where you need to be to shoot/line up the target. keep the rear sight centered with your front sight guard. You wont see the back sight clearly but it should fit the circle in the circle...if that makes sense. any torquing up/down/left/right will make your accuracy go down.
when shooting make sure your bow is perpendicular 90degrees up down.
Quiver off gives more stabilization for me.
Drop away arrow rests are better IMO. Ripcord is a popular one.
also what distances are you planning on shooting a deer at? 20-40yds max would be ideal.
If your peep is placed correctly when you bring your bow up it should be pretty close to where you need to be to shoot/line up the target. keep the rear sight centered with your front sight guard. You wont see the back sight clearly but it should fit the circle in the circle...if that makes sense. any torquing up/down/left/right will make your accuracy go down.
when shooting make sure your bow is perpendicular 90degrees up down.
02-22-2014, 11:13 AM
#7
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 98
The rest I have is a QAD PRO HDX bow tech rest. The arrows I have are the Vforce 5/16 100GR arrows. Im not sure what the stabilizer is, but its the standard one that comes with the bow. I will hopefully be taking 30ish yard shots but we have some areas were like 70yd shots are necessary.
02-22-2014, 04:51 PM
#8
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: North Idaho
Posts: 1,071
The rest I have is a QAD PRO HDX bow tech rest. The arrows I have are the Vforce 5/16 100GR arrows. Im not sure what the stabilizer is, but its the standard one that comes with the bow. I will hopefully be taking 30ish yard shots but we have some areas were like 70yd shots are necessary.
02-25-2014, 01:36 PM
#9
Typical Buck
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: West TN
Posts: 847
"back inda day" we typically sold/setup bows with EITHER-OR a peep or a kisser button but NOT BOTH! The more crap on your string the more you're slowing it down plus increasing shock, noise and wear. Learn to feel the release on your jaw/face or where your hand touches behind your cheek/jaw, on your neck etc... that will quickly become the same thing that you're getting from the kisser.
I'll ALWAYS recommend a peep (I prefer a large, non tube like a "surz a peep" but that's up to the individual) as they not only aid in repeated/consistent anchors but they serve the same purpose as a rear sight on a rifle. You "point" a shotgun and "aim" a rifle, you likewise AIM a bow!
I'll ALWAYS recommend a peep (I prefer a large, non tube like a "surz a peep" but that's up to the individual) as they not only aid in repeated/consistent anchors but they serve the same purpose as a rear sight on a rifle. You "point" a shotgun and "aim" a rifle, you likewise AIM a bow!
03-02-2014, 07:54 AM
#10
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,903
Owning both the RipCord and the QAD Pro HD and HDX, he won't be coming back to a Ripcord after shooting the QAD. Significant downgrade in function. The Ripcord is a great rest, very fast, easy to tune, but the QAD's function of momentum release is worth every cent of the price difference in these two, escpecially considering an aggressive cam bow like the Bowtechs. Being able to let down an aggressive cam bow without the rest dropping may seem like a small difference, but one session shooting the HD will have a Ripcord shooter turning their back on it and committing to the QAD side.
To each their own. I'm a bit picky about Vertical pin sights versus horizontal pin sights, but when it comes to multi-pin versus single pin, I'm still out on the subject. I'm shooting both these days. The multipins are "mindless", you just set the pins and pick the appropriate pin for the given range, and can even use your pin gaps to do a bit of rangefinding. The single pins have a cleaner sight window, and give you more options for range marks (I have about a dozen marks on mine, compared to a 3, 4, or 5 pin sight), but they don't offer rangefinding ability and require the shooter to manipulate the sight during the hunt. If a buck walks in quick from 50yrds to 30yrds, you may have to let down and adjust the site. So neither are really a perfect option over the other for hunting. Love the single pin for target shooting hunter class though.
To each their own. I'm a bit picky about Vertical pin sights versus horizontal pin sights, but when it comes to multi-pin versus single pin, I'm still out on the subject. I'm shooting both these days. The multipins are "mindless", you just set the pins and pick the appropriate pin for the given range, and can even use your pin gaps to do a bit of rangefinding. The single pins have a cleaner sight window, and give you more options for range marks (I have about a dozen marks on mine, compared to a 3, 4, or 5 pin sight), but they don't offer rangefinding ability and require the shooter to manipulate the sight during the hunt. If a buck walks in quick from 50yrds to 30yrds, you may have to let down and adjust the site. So neither are really a perfect option over the other for hunting. Love the single pin for target shooting hunter class though.