what is the compound bow best for me?

[placeshooter]

up until recently i had been shooting a 1978 PSE Phaser. As some of you might guess, a bow that old isn't as durable as it once was. it held up to me shooting some 300 arrows last year. but this year unfortunatly it only lasted around 12 or 13 arrows. Then the lower limb, made of fiberglass, snapped. Luckily i was not hurt. but the bad part is, i now need a new bow for i feel i would rather get a newer model of bow, than try to get the 1978 fixed.

any suggestions on how i should choose a bow?
i know there are biased oppinions of one brand or another so please try to hold any brand based opinions to yourself. i just need help choosing the best ATA and such

[BCRules]

Depends on draw.

For anything over 29", I suggest 35"ATA

Anything under, I suggest 32" ATA

I like my brace to be 7" or so. Lots of choices out there.

[ryndisher]

We need more information man! What do YOU want out of the bow? (Speed/Forgiveness) What is your price range? Tell me a bit more and i could point you in the right direction.

[placeshooter]

im gonna hunt whittails out of a tree stand, i dont want somethin too big or heavy but i do want something with some forgiveness and as far as speed goes the more th better?

[ryndisher]

Alright ill give you some options, there are alot more than this but here are some good ones to look at. These are more top-of-the-line bows as you can tell from the prices...

Mathews Z7 Extreme
Hoyt Crx 32
Hoyt Carbon Element
Bowtech Invasion CPX
Bear Attack

If you tell me your price range i can give you better choices...

[placeshooter]

well i dont want to spend a whole lot more than oike 300 bucks or anything, im only 17... i dont have a ton of money as i just bought a new 12 gauge this winter

[Kybuckhunter]

A PSE Phaser II was my first bow. I think it was a 100 dollars set up new. I killed a bunch of deer with it but man it is a different world now. That bow had very little let off and was slow but it proved to me that you do not have to have a 1500 dollar set up to kill a deer.

Just about any modern bow now is going to be such a huge step up that you will be pleased with about any of them. I have had a good number of bows since my first one and some were better than others but every one would kill a deer.

If you can shoot some and get a feel for them. I shoot a Mathews Q2 that I bought in 2002 and still love the way it shoots. Speed IS NOT the most important thing. Get one that has a good smooth draw and is forgiving. Most speed bows are less forgiving and less accurate unless your form is very good and most times more noisy. Just about any bow you find will be much faster than that Phaser however. Good luck.

[ryndisher]

Yeah what he said... really though for $300 i can guarantee you are probably going to have to buy used or on sale. Just go out and shoot as many as you can whatever YOU like buy it.

[NortheastHunting]

Its very hard for someone else to tell you what type or brand of bow to shoot or buy. I would suggest that you find a reputable dealer with a good staff who knows what they are dealing with. Sizing is a major factor, if the bow is to big for you its not going to be very fun or enjoyable. Another factor would be price, I shoot a middle of the line hoyt and have had great success without a huge expense. The best advise I can give is find a shop that has a small range and you can test various setups, different arrow, and brands of bows. Good luck!

[placeshooter]

thanks for the help, i planned on buying a used bow innitially anyways, so i figured my $300 price range was relatively right on key.