My bow is in the shop as I write this getting new Winners Choice String and cables put on it. I would like to paper tune my bow when I get it back, but should I shoota bit with the new string so that is adjusts and stretches first? or should I just start paper tuning and dialing it in? If you think I need to shoot it a bit first how much shooting do you recommend?
I just put new strings and cables on my bow. I ran about 100-150 arrow thru before I paper tuned it. That is enough arrows for the string to stretch and seat into the grooves.
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I like to shoot the bow with everything adjusted as close as possible to tuned, so as soon as I set the bow up and roughly adjust the sight I'll shoot thrugh paper.
I recently paper tuned my new Bowtech SWAT, it had maybe 20 arrows through it prior to final tune. I feel more confident with it set this way; I can make adjustments later if needed.
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Paper tune, try different broadheads, fletching, or shafts; don't move the sight for broadheads.
Bowtech SWAT 67# 29'' draw. 360 gr. @ 301 FPS
Bowtech SWAT 68# 29'' draw. 430 gr. @ 279 FPS
Bowtech Equalizer 40# 25.5'' draw. 380 gr. @ 213 FPS
Dan: If I paper tune the bow and Slick Tricks have the same POI at 40 yards (always have so far) as my field points, why would I want to do any thing more / different?
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Paper tune, try different broadheads, fletching, or shafts; don't move the sight for broadheads.
Bowtech SWAT 67# 29'' draw. 360 gr. @ 301 FPS
Bowtech SWAT 68# 29'' draw. 430 gr. @ 279 FPS
Bowtech Equalizer 40# 25.5'' draw. 380 gr. @ 213 FPS
Dan: If I paper tune the bow and Slick Tricks have the same POI at 40 yards (always have so far) as my field points, why would I want to do any thing more / different?
It doesn't always work like that. That's the reason I said it shouldn't be the first & last step.
I never paper tune anymore. I rarely even use my laser unless I'm checking for something in particular, but you can bet I go through a few other tuning steps.
Dan: If I paper tune the bow and Slick Tricks have the same POI at 40 yards (always have so far) as my field points, why would I want to do any thing more / different?
It doesn't always work like that. That's the reason I said it shouldn't be the first & last step.
I never paper tune anymore. I rarely even use my laser unless I'm checking for something in particular, but you can bet I go through a few other tuning steps.
Dan
May I ask what you may be referring to when you say a few other tuning steps?
Bareshaft is the way to go, then bh tune. If you get the bareshaft right out to 30 yards, BH tune is usally a piece of cake. I have about quit paper tuning, since my range bag developed a weak spot and an arrow went thru two walls and into a air vent. Wife was PO'd.