Usually the average deer hunter can't tell much difference. I've talked to some of the competion shooters at My bow shop about this before though. They said when You have correct form, and a really forgiving bow shooting out past 40 yards You can tell a big difference between a .0015 arrow, and a .006 arrow. I don't know how much difference, but He said You could tell, and that They don't chance anything.
More important than straightness, is spine consistency. And usually straightness and consistency go hand in hand. If they can't get an arrow straight, they can't build it so the spine is consistent all the way around.
With cheaper arrows, I would be lucky to find 5 out of 12 with consistency that I would want to hunt with. I have tested a bunch of em, and even my arrows I use now carbon express CX edges, I had to send 3-4 out of a dozen back to find good arrows. Bemans hawks, and MFX's were worse. But both companies took care of me.
I tested out some carbon tech whitetail and surprisingly all 12 were perfect. But they are 130 dollars a doz just for the shafts.
IMO,you should always pay more attention to the arrows that you shoot than any other piece of equipment after the rest.These 2 things are the abslolute in accuracy.
BUT,when it comes to straightness,it really isn't as crucial as spine and nock and broadhead alignment.The only thing with that is,the straighter arrows usually mean they have better tolerances which equate to better spine tolerances and consistancy as well.
However,don't fall into the .001 or less trap.Not only is it not that important to have arrows that straight,many times those tolerances are not met. A .002 - .003 straightness arrow is more than enough to carry a broadhead tipped arrow accurately through a deer.
Remember this,the best target arrows in the world have a straightness of .002.
Yea all I know is before I switched to carbon arrows My old aluminums I shot were rated at .006 straightness, and I killed plenty of deer with them. Some of them were past 30 yards. I know I shoot more accurate now than I did. It rests some on the newer bow,rest, and equipment I've got too though. I use to shoot an old PSE compound, and autumn orange arrows, with a flipper rest. Now I shoot a hoyt vortec with a qad ultra rest, andcarbon express maxima arrows. I don't think it makes too much of a difference. Its more like the guys above Me said. The spine, and all that stuff is whats important.
The reason I asked the original question is I was looking at some new arrows and according to the arrow selection chart I need either the Beman ISC bowhunter with a .006 straightness or The ISC hunters with .003 straightness. I didnt know if that .003 difference was enough to drop an extra 30+ bucks. How do I test spine consistency? I'm only a second year archer/bowhunter so im not exactly a pro by any means, so would I be able to tell the diference if any at all?
__________________
My Christmas present:
Fred Bear Lights Out
Tru-glo 5 pin
whisker biscuit
trophy ridge 6 arrow quiver
Scott mongoose release
Redhead Carbon Fury arrows
The reason I asked the original question is I was looking at some new arrows and according to the arrow selection chart I need either the Beman ISC bowhunter with a .006 straightness or The ISC hunters with .003 straightness. I didnt know if that .003 difference was enough to drop an extra 30+ bucks. How do I test spine consistency? I'm only a second year archer/bowhunter so im not exactly a pro by any means, so would I be able to tell the diference if any at all?
Your not going to. Unless you have a spine checking tool. If you know someone with one you may decide to try it out. But I don't check mine. Most people don't. Buy the best arrows you can get like eveyone said and I think you'll be happy. Now if you keep shooting for years to come and you just want to push your limits out some and have the extra cash to spend on special tools etc. Can realy get into the tech side of archery.
On the other hand you could be like me and go the total opposite and end up shooting a hand made selfbow and rivercane arrows.
My point is not to totaly overthink or over complicate archery. It used to be based on simplicity. Newer bows and all the gadgets and gizmos flooding the market cloud that. You don't necessarily need everything you hear about. (I made that mistake early on. Furtunatly I had little money to much about it)
Its good to look into your arrows and I think your on the right track. 30 more a dozen I'd probably spend. Why? well because I'll have those arrows for years and years. If your carefull not to lose them in the grass etc. You will too. In fact It been a while since I lost one practicing. Deer hunting ...I can't clain the same...2 arrows = 2 deer....acceptable losses.
Dang it now I'm going to go and loose them all.......LOL
From my experience it is better to get arrows staright to .003" vs .006", but not necessarily .001".
Look at it this way. If you are able to build or have your arrows built then you take a .003" shaft. Cut 1 1/2" from the nock end of the arrow. Cut the rest from the point end. What you end up with is a shaft that is straight to .002" or less. The reason is that most carbon shafts have their imperfections nearer to the ends with the middle being the straightest.
As mentioned also is that most arrows with straighter tolerances also have tighter tolerances on the other crucial factors such as spine and weight, spine being more critical. Weight differences of a couple grains bewteen arrows is something you'll most likely never see, even at longer yardages.
And looking at the past? Don't sell those Autumn Orange XX75 shafts short. They were good in their time and are still good----but you aren't going to find too many orange shafts any more. Before the advent of carbon shafts I shot those orange logs for many years.
__________________
Martin Silver Star Shooter
UBP Life Member
PSAA Life Member
Worldwide Scuba Diver
Arrow Straightness, how important is it?
