Diamond won't shoot fixed blades

[442deer]

I have a 2007 diamond triumph 60# 28" shooting CX PredatorII 6075 with quickspins or CX Terminator lite hunter 6075 with blazers.
Shooting field tips or mechanicals(100gr) it's a tack driver. It's paper tuned well. But with fixed blade broadheads it's an inconsistent piece of garbage!!
After a "bad experience" with mechanicals this season (no pass thru, you can figure out the rest), I had to switch back to my trusty old Hoyt TenacityII. It still performs flawlessly, but it's heavy and It's a waste to have this other bow just sitting there.
Has anybody else had issues like this? I'm broke as a joke and have been taking the bow to the local amish bow shop because they are close, and cheap. His only comment was "Ya, dem diamonds can be hard to tune"
Am I missing something obvious?

[Schultzy]

"Ya, dem diamonds can be hard to tune"

LMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Schultzy]

Sorry for that, that was damn funny man!!

[442deer]

Yeah, I couldn't even make up something that good.

[bowdoc1]

No problem with my Diamond Black Ice 2007 shoots G5 Montce just great. The last two years with itI have been blowing through deer and broad heads are reallyshootinggreat groups. I'm shooting 400 axis arrows, 100 gr G5 Montecheads at 70 lbs.

[Matt/NC]

Something alot of us are looking into is shooting a heavier arrow. You will likely get more pass thrus with a heavier arrow but same mech. broadhead

[bowdoc1]

I have got a 100 % pass through on 5 deer in the last two years with the black ice. I shot a nice buck this year that took a v out of the paddle bone going in and went right through the middle ofthe paddle bone on exit and stuck in the ground. like he was a cardboard box. I don't think I want any more penetration than that, It wouldshoot through my a truck door. If you think a heavier arrowis going to do better than a 100 % good luck.

[BGfisher]

It probably isn't the bow per se. Different riser geometry, different cam system, different in a lot of ways means you just may not be shooting it as well. I assume you're shooting the same arrows out of each bow so broadhead alignment shouldn't be an issue. I also assume you have used Easton's tuning guide and know how to broadhead tune.

Just what are your arrows doing out of the Diamond? Don't put a whole lot of stock in paper tuning. It's can tell you how your arrow is leaving the bow and should be done at several different distances, but it's not the end of the tuning process. Only the beginning.

Paper tuning cannot show you what the arrow does after it leaves the bow. Other such things as fletching drag or lack of it, FOC, and other things can enter into the picture. Too much drag (fletching) and your arrows can paper tune well, but cause groups to open up down range. Too little and they'll fly just plain awful. Too little FOC has the same effect as too much fletching. Groups open up and the farther you shoot the larger they get.

You also might try some close range (20 yards and less) bare shaft tuning and see what happens. OH yeah, and not with broadheads. It might be contact or a spine issue. As I said, different bow, different cam system.

[FSUBIGMAC]

Yeah what broadheads are you shooting and how do you have those blazers fletched? I ask this because I am shooting the Marquis and had straight fletched blazer and had a heck of a time getting fixed blades to fly good. I had another dozen made up with a 2deg offset and that solved the problem. Muzzy 4 blades were flying good. So now I use the straight fletch for spots.

[442deer]

I can visually see the arrow making a big ol corkscrew motion before hitting the target. That's why I also tried the quickspins thinking the straight fletched blazers didn't have enough drag. It's got a whisker bisquit for a rest. I have a diamond hostage laying around. Any better? The hostage seems so flimsy. I have $0.00 to spend or I would try a qad rest. My boy has one on his bow and it sure is nice. He would break my legs if I swiped it.