"Choosing arrows is a two-part process. First, decide what arrow weight you want to shoot, which in effect helps determine the type of shaft you'll need. Second, choose the correct shaft stiffness to complement your draw weight and arrow length.
Determining weight and speed goals:[/b]
Not every bowhunter needs to shoot the lightest and fastest arrows available. In fact, shooting feather-weights can damage your bow and accessories. Light arrows don't soak up as much of the bow's energy as do heavier ones, leaving more energy behind that has to be dissipated through vibration. If your arrows are too light, your bow can literally be shaken to pieces. The Archery Manufacturer's Organization (AMO) has proposed a standard minimum arrow weight of roughly six grains for each pound of your bow's maximum draw weight (60 pound bow = 360 grain arrow).
By today's standards, a heavy hunting arrow will weigh 8 to 10 grains per pound. And, if you really want to go for all-out speed, the standard of 5 grains per pound set forth by the International Bowhunter's Organization (IBO) for its sanctioned 3-D tournaments is as light as you dare go."
Does the above refer to a complete arrow (vanes, broadhead etc.) or just the bare shaft?
secondly i only have a 27" draw, 70# draw weight, and would like to compete with my hunting bow in the off-season, any suggestions?
*Moderators, please feel free to move this to the technical section... sorry
Jeremy,
You have to decide what specifically you want, how much $$$ you're willing to part with, and what kind of speed you want, how quiet you'd like the bow to be, etc. It's really much more about SPINE than weight with todays Carbon arrows, not weight. That being said, a little heavier arrow will absorb the energy of your bow much better than a very light arrow, and thus will make your bow a tad more "efficient," while also making it a bit quieter. I personally like a 6-7grains/pound type set-up, but each person is different, and each bow is different. Having a shorter draw, you may lean toward something a little lighter, to try to get a little extra speed, but keep in mind thelighter tha arrow is, the more "abuse" you put your bow through.This is a pretty good link thatgoes from basic to some pretty technical stuff, and willgive you a little more insight into what criteria you may want to consider when choosing arrows..... http://www.huntersfriend.com/2007-Carbon-Arrows/arrow-selection-guide1.htm
Does the above refer to a complete arrow (vanes, broadhead etc.) or just the bare shaft? Complete Arrow
secondly i only have a 27" draw, 70# draw weight, and would like to compete with my hunting bow in the off-season, any suggestions? Shoot what you hunt with, I have been doing it that way for a few years now, they have different classes for different set ups..
OHbwhunter, is correct in the fact that you really want to determine arrow by your spine first, then you can see the different arrows at different weights once you know what spine to go with. It isn't rocket science but it is a lot fun once you get her all set up and shooting like you want....
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TBH,
http://www.camospace.com/signup/friend_TexasBowHunter/
"LUCK-is where opportunity meets preparation"
and "P.E.T.A. Sucks"
i disagree i do not think you should figure in how much money you want to spend on something as critical as arrows. figure what you want out find a few that makes a good arrow then figure which is the best arrow for it's price. if you buy cheap stuff you going to get a cheap performance
Quote:
ORIGINAL: OHbowhntr
Jeremy,
You have to decide what specifically you want, how much $$$ you're willing to part with, and what kind of speed you want, how quiet you'd like the bow to be, etc. It's really much more about SPINE than weight with todays Carbon arrows, not weight. That being said, a little heavier arrow will absorb the energy of your bow much better than a very light arrow, and thus will make your bow a tad more "efficient," while also making it a bit quieter. I personally like a 6-7grains/pound type set-up, but each person is different, and each bow is different. Having a shorter draw, you may lean toward something a little lighter, to try to get a little extra speed, but keep in mind thelighter tha arrow is, the more "abuse" you put your bow through.This is a pretty good link thatgoes from basic to some pretty technical stuff, and willgive you a little more insight into what criteria you may want to consider when choosing arrows..... http://www.huntersfriend.com/2007-Carbon-Arrows/arrow-selection-guide1.htm
Hope some of that helps....
__________________
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If you want peace, prepare for war.
"The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants. It is it's natural manure." - Thomas Jefferson
Team 17: Kickers and Stickers
Unfotrunately, arrows are a product where you get what you pay for. The extra $20 for arrows that have closer matched weights (+/- 1) and trueness (+/-1 .001") is money well spent. Better arrows will result in smaller groups and increased confidence. I would put a post in the tech forum with all of your bow specs and get someone to put the numbers in their software (OT2, Archer's Advantage). Sometime the spine chart are off with today's hard shooting bow. The entire weight of shaft, inserts etc is included in the IBO weight.
Start with spine. Buy the best you can afford. Shoot the same arrow for 3D.
i disagree i do not think you should figure in how much money you want to spend on something as critical as arrows. figure what you want out find a few that makes a good arrow then figure which is the best arrow for it's price. if you buy cheap stuff you going to get a cheap performance
Quote:
ORIGINAL: OHbowhntr
Jeremy,
You have to decide what specifically you want, how much $$$ you're willing to part with, and what kind of speed you want, how quiet you'd like the bow to be, etc. It's really much more about SPINE than weight with todays Carbon arrows, not weight. That being said, a little heavier arrow will absorb the energy of your bow much better than a very light arrow, and thus will make your bow a tad more "efficient," while also making it a bit quieter. I personally like a 6-7grains/pound type set-up, but each person is different, and each bow is different. Having a shorter draw, you may lean toward something a little lighter, to try to get a little extra speed, but keep in mind thelighter tha arrow is, the more "abuse" you put your bow through.This is a pretty good link thatgoes from basic to some pretty technical stuff, and willgive you a little more insight into what criteria you may want to consider when choosing arrows..... http://www.huntersfriend.com/2007-Carbon-Arrows/arrow-selection-guide1.htm
Hope some of that helps....
I agree I think you should not go cheap here. You can have the best bow money can buy and won't shot as good as you think it should because the arrows aren't as straight the last one was and you will think you are doing something wrong when in fact you could be doing everything right but the arrows are just noy good of quality as they could be. Spend the money on good arrows.
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The most important blood trail leads to the foot of the cross
Can you guys explain to me why someone should buy the most expensive arrow on the market? Are saying that the rest of the arrows on the market are not any good? Are you saying that a quality middle of the raod arrow with say a +/- .003 tolerance is not worthy of shooting well????
__________________
TBH,
http://www.camospace.com/signup/friend_TexasBowHunter/
"LUCK-is where opportunity meets preparation"
and "P.E.T.A. Sucks"
beginner question about arrow weights
