ok i bought some arrows at gander mountain for my 40-50 lb bow. They are carbon tech 3050 which is 8.4 grains per inch. I mainly bought them just so i could get started shooting. They guy told me that they would not be strong enough to kill a deer. He said that when the arrow would hit a bone they would shatter. Is this true. If so how many grains per inch do i need? I would like to get the easton n-fused if i could but i dont know if the gpi will be right. I dint really understand all this stuff that much so i would appreciated it someone would explain it to me.
Thanks
IMHO the GPI weight of an arrow is a mute point and I have no idea why they put the GPI on shafts these days.
What is the most important numer on a shaft is the spine rating if you use a shaft that is not spined right for your set up there is no way you are going to tune the bow or the arrow to each other.
I can get 500 spine arrows that according to the GPI will be enough weight to shoot out of my 60lb bow but there is no way I can tune the bow or arrow for perfect flight with both field points and broad heads because the spine of the shaft is too weak.
Forget the GPI and worry about the Spine rating and get shafts spined right for your set up.
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The strength of the arrow has nothing to do with gr per inch, the gr per inch tell you what the arrow will weigh. The stregnth of the arrow is decided by the spine, I haven't heard of the carbon tech's before but you will need to know how long your arrows are and draw weight to be able to look them up on a spinechart.
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IMHO the GPI weight of an arrow is a mute point and I have no idea why they put the GPI on shafts these days.
To give an idea what an arrow weighs. If I have a 27" shaft and the arrow weighs 9 grains per inch, I know I have a starting weight of 243 grains, raw shaft.
If I know my insert, point, fletch and nock, I don't need a grains scale.
I'd suppose for no other reason really. It's just a generic reference.
You can go to any arrow manufacturer's web site and most have a chart that you can look at and pick an arrow from with just a few known factor's. Check out www.goldtip.com and look up their chart, it shows your set up to need a .600 spine. The arrows will shootas good as you can shoot as long as your bow is tuned properly.
Edit: I am not trying to push a specific arrow, I just have their spine chrt on this computer, any manufacturer will have their spine charts online too!!!
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TBH,
http://www.camospace.com/signup/friend_TexasBowHunter/
"LUCK-is where opportunity meets preparation"
and "P.E.T.A. Sucks"
Good advice so far, but I'd check out Carbon Tech's website to see if the arrow is spined right for your bow. My experience tells me it is.
Don't get all hyped up about what someone said about the arrow shattering if you hit bone. This can happen with any carbon shaft and even aluminum can break on occasion. Best thing I can tell you is to tune your equipment well, practice diligently, and go hunting. Don't try to shoot too close to the shoulder. Several inches back will do the same job---double lung.
Even with you doing everything right there is always the possibility something will go amiss and you'll hit a bone. It happens. It's not a perfect world out there.
About the only thing that I would be concerned about is penetration. You have low poundage and short draw so make your shots accurate. Use a fairly narrow cut, fixed blade broadhead. Something like a 3 blade, 1 1/8" cut or narrower. This will help with penetration. And don't use an expandable head.
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grains per inch question
