So I'm buying a new bow (nevermind which model or from which company, for this decision.)
I've got it narrowed down to two models. One I would shoot at 60# the other I would shoot at 70#. Reason being, one is smoother at 70 than the other.
First problem, WDFW demands archers shoot 6 grains per pound of draw weight. 70# = 420grains, 60# = 360grains.
I've come up with the following;
70#, 28", 449grains, 255fps, 64.85lbs/KE.
60#, 28", 361grains, 280fps, 62.86lbs/KE.
Second problem is deciding between the two.
Do I shoot the 70# because it will retain its kinetic energy longer or do I shoot the 60# because its faster [read; flatter trajectory] and have roughly the same KE inside 20 yards?
[&:]
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The problem isn't the KE out of the bow. Its the KE down range.
While the majority of my shots have been inside 20 yards, I do tend to hunt some pretty open country and a longer shot is very likely.
I don't know/understand a lot about arrows holding energy down range or how much is lost over how many feet/yards, which is why I'm having a problem making up my mind...
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The prey must have the predator, just as the predator needs the prey. One without the other is something less. The wolf without the deer becomes a dog. The deer without the wolf becomes a cow. And what does man become?
So I'm buying a new bow (nevermind which model or from which company, for this decision.)
You just earned my respect (for what that's worth ). No bow bashing BS here. I'd take the 60lb bow. Out of curiousity, if the 70lb bow is as smooth as the 60lb bow of another manufacturer, why not get the smoother drawing bow at 60lb instead of 70lb? Razor sharp broadheads. So much for kenetic energy
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All animals are equal, but some animals are more equal than others.
6 grains per pounds is 6 grains per pound....I'm not sure how 1 bow is shooting that much faster?? Yeah, the arrow is lighter, but there's 10#'s less draw weight....Are these estimations or actuals? If they are indeed actual, it's a no brainer. Get the 60.
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