So I work at walmart and noticed that the sporting goods section got the archery stuff out finally...they actually have some decent heads in this year and was gonna ask you guys for your opinions on some of them. Ill buy them from wally-world just for the simple fact that I get an employee discount.
NAP Spitfires-- always been kind of curious about them but is 60-62# enough to shoot them?
NAP Razorbak- heard they are decent
Crimson Talon XT- always been interested but they dont look like the toughest blade out there
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R.I.P- Max Sawlaw - (Uncle Buddy)
Cause in the wind he's still alive. We got his spirit We got his soul. He will guide our steps, he will guide our arrows home. The restless spirit still roams.
The spitfires are excellent mechanical broadheads. At 60lbs your probably right at the edge of what I feel is ideal to consistantly get pass throughs with most shots.
The razorbacks are decent heads, not as sharp as most NAP heads, and you can't replace the bleeder blades.
The crimson talon Xt is actually a very good head. They have improved this head over the last 5 years or so and now I feel it's one of the better fixed blades on the market. They could still be sharper, but they are plenty tough now. They will tear up a broadhead target quicker than most heads though, but the upside is that the same damage done to the target is also done to the game.
Im thinking I might just go with the Spitfire... how much preparation do you need to have with those before season? I mean Im assuming they will fly with my field points correct? I've never used a mechanical head before...
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R.I.P- Max Sawlaw - (Uncle Buddy)
Cause in the wind he's still alive. We got his spirit We got his soul. He will guide our steps, he will guide our arrows home. The restless spirit still roams.
Englum, I use the 100 grain spitfires. I've been using them for about 8 years now and love them.I'm pulling 68 pounds. You should be okay with 60-62. They produce great exit wounds. They leave a big hole. A100 grain field tip flies practically identical to the 100 grainbroadhead. You won't have to practice with the broadhead. At $35 for three, you probably wouldn't want to anyway.
You won't have to practice with the broadhead. At $35 for three, you probably wouldn't want to anyway.
Always, Always, Always practice with your broadheads at least once. What may fly perfect out of one setup might be a few inches off out of another bow. And a few inches is all it may take for you to not kill the animal. That way you know!!!
Question....You mention that at 60#'s....he was on the cusp of being able to shoot mechanicals. While I totally agree....it would seem that the speed the bow's producing would be the only way to determine if he's going to be able to push enough KE to shoot mechanicals, or not.
I ONLY mention this....because I may be in the same boat as the OP....AND...with today's technology.....more people can shoot them with 60# bows than in years past. 60#s and 300+fps isn't out of the realm of possibility, anymore.
You won't have to practice with the broadhead. At $35 for three, you probably wouldn't want to anyway.
Always, Always, Always practice with your broadheads at least once. What may fly perfect out of one setup might be a few inches off out of another bow. And a few inches is all it may take for you to not kill the animal. That way you know!!!
I was actually stating that it is not necessary to continuously shoot broadheads at the target. I would take one broadhead and try it, but I promise you, they are going to fly nearly identical to field tips. Yes, it's a good idea to shoot a broadhead just to see if there is much of a difference so you will know if you have to compensate any. I shot one several times years ago, and to this day, the field tips fly the same. So I do agree with youin the initial shot or two should be taken with a broadhead, but after that, it is really not necessary, unless you change something on your bow, change arrows,or change bows completely.
NAP Spitfire XP's - This is my number one head and I've killed bear and deer over the last 4 years with them..here is an exit hole from my NAP Spitfires...a doe at 20 yards and 65 pounds...
You will be fine with the draw weight you are using..My father in law gets pass throughs with his and he shoots 60 pounds....
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"Cherish your time in the woods"
I can tell you from experience......if you're going to shoot an arrow at an animal.....shoot EVERY one of the ones you plan on using....WITH the BH you plan on utilizing when you hunt.
I bought a dozen new a/c/c 3-71's last year to hunt whitetails with. Out of those 12 arrows....I had 2 that I could not get to fly right. I could change BH's.......and I still couldn't get those 2 to fly right. I took off the wraps.....re-fletched....did everything I could think of to find out why. I never could.
Exact same everything.....but these two wouldn't group with the others. I still have them....and just know not to shoot them.
I go so far as to number every arrow I get fletched. I absloutely KNOW when I go to stand that the arrows in my quiver are all flying true. I know this because I've shot them all.....WITH THE HEAD I'm gonna be shooting them with (or one exactly like it).
I know in my case....it wasn't the head making them fly errantly. What it was, though......I couldn't tell you.
Broadhead question...
