I think it is essential for people to understand their equipment as best they can andbe able to tune it on their own in order to get the best performance out of it, and to fix things when they go wrong with no pro shop close by. With that being said I am trying to take in as much as I can with articles and posts as far as tuning the bow and arrow flight (my two favorites are the tiller adjusting article by Arthurand how to tie in a D Loop by Greg) but i have not found what I want on one key step which is sight elevation setting. In a lot of the articles I read you take a arrow place it on the rest, then level it to set the nock, then use laser or some other means to find center shot on the rest and move it over and then finally paper tune making fine adjustments on the nock and rest; but how do I set my initial rest elevation to start everything off with. I don't think this would matter but I am using a whisker biscuit.
Generally, you want the shaft to be level with the "berger button", the two holes your rest screws into. Attach your rest, then nock a shaft, then line up the shaft with the berger button and adjust the nock point until everything is level.
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Nature does nothing uselessly.
- Aristotle -
I don't doubt what you're saying about going one size larger, but. My over analylitical little walnut sized brain tells me that an arrow will glide along on the bottom of the biscuit's hole until the fletchings make contact with the whiskers and then the arrow will attempt to center itself in the hole. Does this make any sense or am I just over thinking. But then again the larger hole would provide more clearance when the arrow flexes. No wonder I switched to the QAD.
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Diamond Justice 65# 29"DL
Gold Tip XT Hunter 5575 27.5"
Spot-Hogg Hunter Hogg-it w/wrap
QAD Ultra-Rest HD, Limbsaver M6 Quiver
Custom Stab w/Limbsaver modular nodes and QD
I am using the medium whisker biscuit which is one size larger then the recc. one for Easton Axis N-fused arrows, so yes I am using one size larger.
Bruce- Center to center level/top of arrow to center of berger level etc..? Sorry I am a little anal and quite a perfectionist. I know I do not want to start tuning and have a bunch of trouble later on down the road because I did not do the first step right.
Generally, you want the shaft to be level with the "berger button", the two holes your rest screws into. Attach your rest, then nock a shaft, then line up the shaft with the berger button and adjust the nock point until everything is level.
x2 Good advice.
Depending on the bow, I typically leave just a little bit of the berger holes visable at the top or the bottom (over or below the arrow, as you look at it directly from the side). It allows me to gauge (roughly) if the arrow is sitting level or slightly nock high. I then tie a rough nock set, and check it with a bow square to see if my eyeball was close. I set single cam bows 1/8 to 3/16 nock high starting out.... everytime. If I don't I usually find myself going back and doing so shortly thereafter. Infact, most bows shoot well just about 1/8" high I find. I'm not a good enough shot and bows vary from one to another enough to know the full effect of level vs 1/8" high.... but they all seem to work at 1/8" high of square, but not all of them work at level. Some of course need a little more.
There is no set industry standard on how far up or how far over your rest height and center shot will be. So you really just have to start out roughly in the middle and mess with it til she's right.
__________________ You get what you put in, and people get what they deserve. - Kid Rock
Swamp, so you match center of the berger hole to the center of your arrow leaving equal reveal of the berger hole above and below your arrow looking from the side. If this is the case I love that it is that simple I just thought there would be some rocket scince way so that the nock ended up in a very specific zone between the cams.
Swamp, so you match center of the berger hole to the center of your arrow leaving equal reveal of the berger hole above and below your arrow looking from the side. If this is the case I love that it is that simple I just thought there would be some rocket scince way so that the nock ended up in a very specific zone between the cams.
Yes, as SwampCollie said, center to center.
I have read and heard about 1/8" nock high also but my experience is with binary cams and nock level seems to work just fine. As SwampCollie mentions I think this is more applicable to single cams and even traditonal bow setups.
__________________
Nature does nothing uselessly.
- Aristotle -
Swamp, so you match center of the berger hole to the center of your arrow leaving equal reveal of the berger hole above and below your arrow looking from the side. If this is the case I love that it is that simple I just thought there would be some rocket scince way so that the nock ended up in a very specific zone between the cams.
Yes, as SwampCollie said, center to center.
I have read and heard about 1/8" nock high also but my experience is with binary cams and nock level seems to work just fine. As SwampCollie mentions I think this is more applicable to single cams and even traditonal bow setups.
Right on Bruce.... I shoot a trinary cam (binary by a different name) cam myself, and I'm just SLIGHTLY (1/16")nock high of level... it doesn't shoot worth a hoot... butI've got the bow tuned like a race car and the arrows fly like laser beams(its the driver that needs fixing! ). Single cams definately do need nock high and traditional bow set ups quite typically require AT LEAST 3/16" and sometimes I see them so high I wonder they don't skip to the target... but they fly like a dart.
TG: As to your question about rocket science.... FAR from it! But yes as you wrote it TG thats usually about how I start her off.
__________________ You get what you put in, and people get what they deserve. - Kid Rock