Originally Posted by taz88
if my draw is 28 inches how long should my arrows be and where do you muersure the arrow from tip of head to where it connects to the string
There are at least 3 "rules of thumb" for how to determine finished arrow length for a compound bow:
Shortest Safe Length:
When drawn, with the bow set at your proper draw length - your SHAFT should reach 1/4" in front of your rest. I highlighted "SHAFT" there to differentiate between broadhead and insert/ferrule. The end of the shaft itself, NOT including the insert, should be 1/4" in front of the rest, so if you didn't have ANY tip installed, you'd have a bit more than 3/8" in front of your rest when fully drawn. This is the absolute shortest you should ever consider cutting your arrows. If you have a need to extend your draw length, even a half inch, you will not be able to do so without getting new arrows. This is NOT safe for bows that don't have a solid back wall - in other words if you hit the draw stops and can continue to draw back slightly, then this length is not safe. Any shorter than this and you can potentially draw the arrow out the back of the rest, which might mean it stabs through your arm/hand or through your neighbor.
Standard Minimum Length:
Most guys will consider the minimum proper length to be the middle of the berger hole when drawn (Berger hole = threaded hole in the riser where your rest is mounted). Again, this is the length of the cut shaft, not counting the insert. This gives a little bit more safety, and a bit more versatility for changing your draw length.
Cut the shafts flush with the front edge of the riser, or even 1/2" or 1" in front of the riser, when fully drawn. This puts the broadhead fully in front of the shooters hand, which is particularly important for fixed broadhead shooters, and especially so for "extreme" diameter turkey heads like Bullheads or Guillotines. It DOES HAPPEN that fixed broadhead shooters, firing open handed with a lot of heel in their bow and improper hand form can stick their fingers up into the path of the arrow. This eliminates that possibility.
I personally cut all of my arrows to 1/4" past my rest, the minimum safe length, except for my "turkey arrows" which are 1/4" longer than the front of my riser when drawn.
To mark these positions, have a friend with a pencil/pen mark the arrow when you are fully drawn. I've started using dental bands around the shaft instead, I'll put the band around the shaft near the tip, then have my buddy roll it rearward until it's in the right spot. A lot of guys will criticize one thing or the other for marking shafts, no telling who is right: pens/markers dissolve the resin in carbon shafts, pencils scratch the shaft which can weaken it, blah blah... Rubber band aint going to hurt it either way, and it's just as fast.