cayugad

Both of them will work but just for your piece of mind check the load on the range. Of the two "PELLETS" I like Pyrodex better. I had some Triple Seven pellets that were flaming stars when fired. And we are talking a new box of them. Never had that happen with Pyrodex. Also the best group I ever shot is with Pyrodex pellets.

While Pyrodex is the most corrosive powder out there, if you clean your rifle after you shoot, there is no danger of any rusting in using the powder. Its powerful, consistent, and a very good powder. The fouling is soft and easy to remove with water or Windex. The people that hate it do so because it is the "most corrosive of powders" granted, and yes you have to clean the rifle within a day of shooting it, or you might experience rusting. My feelings are cleaning a rifle that day or the next means nothing to me. Big deal, ten minutes out of my hectic life. And then the rifle is ready for the next day.

On the other hand Triple Seven (in loose form) I think is a great powder. Its powerful, although you have to swab between shots because of crud rings, its easy to clean, and I find when shooting sabots its very accurate. Also when I shoot heavy conicals, I use this powder.

But if I were going to stick with pellets, I would go with Pyrodex.

falcon

Pyrodex is a very good and consistent powder: About as good as it gets. Clean the gun after using and you're home free.

dahumphries

Thanks everyone for the input. Based on your posts, there may be a difference in impact, thus I'll be shooting it at the range before hunting with it again. I guess I'll try both to see what seems to shoot the best...not familiar with the corrosion or crud ring everyone is discussing, but I never let my ML sit without cleaning it immediately after firing it...well, at the end of each day of shooting.

Jenks

dahumphries--make sure that the sabot or bullet is seated against the powder. The crud ring forms just ahead of your bullet so when you reload it will keep the sabot or bullet from being seated on the powder--which is a very bad situation if you shoot it like that. Swab with Windex between every shot helps to remove the crud ring but it can still be there so mark your ramrod so that you know when the bullet is fully seated. Do not fire the gun if the bullet is not fully seated against the powder. I don't mean to preach, but this is important.

toytruck

Agreed, when I used it I always cleaned the rifle ASAP, never an issue for me. Some don't think its a big deal to clean after using pyrodex an pay the price of ruining their guns.

Triple 7 is more forgiving and a lot easier to cleanup for me. I don't get a crud ring with my White rifles with the bigger bores and can shoot multiple times without swabbing and #11 caps. In fact no swabbing is needed just shoot till your done. Tighter bores with 209 primer are another story, so I can understand the crud ring frustrations, been there.

rafsob

Never had a crud ring from Pyrodex!!

As to what is hotter then the other, if you are hunting in Virginia hotter means nothing. My shots are lucky to go out to 100 yds. Most are in the 50 to 75 yd range. 777 would have a slight advantage for a long range shot though.

WV Hunter

I watched a buddy of mine spend 2 hrs trying to clean the T7 crud ring out of his encore last fall at our cabin. He shot 3 times without swabbing.... the crud ring was so pronounced it took him over an hour to get the first patch back up past the ring. It kept pulling them off his jag, and he'd have to put a patch puller on and retrieve the torn up patch.

It was comical actually. He was using 3 T7 pellets. I looked at his rifle after, it was obviously not pristine in the bore...which I'm sure made things worse. Knowing him, he's not one to be in a real hurry to clean his rifle.

Pyrodex doesn't really develop a bad crud ring like T7, with #11 or 209's. I still swab between shots, except when in the field.

toytruck

I have with my former T/C rifles. Granted not as bad as Triple 7, but it was still there using 209 primers and required swabbing.

Not a problem with #11 caps an White guns. You won't believe the difference till you shoot one...main reason I sold all my inline T/C's.

falcon

Triple Seven burns hotter than the other subs. The crud ring is made worse by large powder charges and sometimes by 209 shotgun primers. The crud ring happens when the primary residue from firing, potassium carbonate, gets hot enough to melt and fuse.

My TC Black Diamond rifle uses #11 caps. There is no crud ring with 80 grains of 777 and the Winchester magnum caps.

Dutch Bill is the foremost authority on things blackpowder and blackpowder subs: He advised the industry for decades:

Under the right conditions blackpowder and some other subs can leave a crud ring, although not as pronounced as 777.

Removing a 777 crud ring is not a big deal. Immediately after firing the last shot i swab the bore with Windex with vinegar. At home i swab the bore again with Windex with vinegar followed by a brass brush on the ramrod. In about three minutes the crud ring is gone.

BarnesAddict

Out of a custom barrel, I shoot 180grs of T7 using a LMRP. The barrel is swabbed between each shot with Butch's BP Bore Shine and a single patch. No crud ring builds up as long as its swabbed between shots and you can literally shoot it all day like that with no loss of accuracy. It takes 5 patches to clean the bore to put the rifle away.

NOTE: The charge is shot in a custom rifle barrel. Do not attempt a charge that heavy with a production barrel or, a barrel not designed for that heavy a charge.