Bore Butter-Wonder Lube=difference?
11-12-2014, 08:43 AM
#11
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Colorado
Posts: 9,557
I came close. I called in two bears, and when they got around 100yds they started to circle around behind me. They caught my scent, and wandered off. All the areas that had berry bushes produced no bears.
Other than that. Nothing!
Other than that. Nothing!
11-12-2014, 05:30 PM
#12
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Penns Woods
Posts: 1,628
BPS
11-12-2014, 10:37 PM
#13
Typical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: North East PA. but not home.
Posts: 743
As BPS knows,it gets very cold here! I want to play with some Maxis and real bullets in my inlines and flinters? Can you guys give me a lube idea that will work? The 2 i ask about are really hard in the cold! I've seen lube recipes but don't know which to try. Would you folks give me a couple of ones i could make?
11-13-2014, 01:55 AM
#14
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,425
I uses Stumpy's Moose Snot, you can add more oil if you are in very cold conditions...Some on this website also like mink oil that they get from Track...There are numerous discussions on the Traditional forum that discuss lubes, all have their advocates...
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fu...hp?tid/203261/
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fu...hp?tid/203261/
11-13-2014, 04:34 AM
#15
Dominant Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 21,193
Stumpy's Moose Snot
Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Heat beeswax in a can (I use a tall cleaned out Baked Bean can) set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil.
In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up.
Stir with anything you have. I just took some wooden wedges, split them length way, and made stir sticks. Keep mixing the ingredents as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE.
Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL STEP .... Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.
For colder climates where you want the lube softer, just add a little more oil. When made the conventional way, this stuff stands up to heat and cold. Its a good lube. I have tried other things to "make the lube better," but Stumpy's original formula is really as good as it gets.
This second reciepe is a variation of Junior Lube. I changed it a little and like mine better.
Junior Lube..
exactly 3 fluid ounces of melted lard
exactly 400 grains of solid beeswax
exactly 100 grains of Alox solid bullet lube.
I substituted liquid Lyman Alox for the solid Alox lube that he suggested. I have bottle of this from all the sizing molds I purchased through LEE Molds. I also instead of melted lard, use castor oil.
Since the castor oil comes in a 4 ounce bottle at Wal Mart, I kicked up the solid beeswas to 500 grains, and the Liquid Alox to 125 grains. You can adjust the ingredents to make the lube as hard or as soft as you like. It makes an excellent lube.
Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Heat beeswax in a can (I use a tall cleaned out Baked Bean can) set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil.
In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up.
Stir with anything you have. I just took some wooden wedges, split them length way, and made stir sticks. Keep mixing the ingredents as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE.
Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL STEP .... Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.
For colder climates where you want the lube softer, just add a little more oil. When made the conventional way, this stuff stands up to heat and cold. Its a good lube. I have tried other things to "make the lube better," but Stumpy's original formula is really as good as it gets.
This second reciepe is a variation of Junior Lube. I changed it a little and like mine better.
Junior Lube..
exactly 3 fluid ounces of melted lard
exactly 400 grains of solid beeswax
exactly 100 grains of Alox solid bullet lube.
I substituted liquid Lyman Alox for the solid Alox lube that he suggested. I have bottle of this from all the sizing molds I purchased through LEE Molds. I also instead of melted lard, use castor oil.
Since the castor oil comes in a 4 ounce bottle at Wal Mart, I kicked up the solid beeswas to 500 grains, and the Liquid Alox to 125 grains. You can adjust the ingredents to make the lube as hard or as soft as you like. It makes an excellent lube.
11-13-2014, 03:36 PM
#16
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 12,745
