CVA Optima - BlackHorn 209 - Shockwaves
#11
shim the firing pin bushing out? What, that makes it lock up tighter? I will call CVA and talk to them on Monday.
#12
If you shim the bushing correctly it wont be tight. The kit comes with several shims in different thicknesses.
Its very simple really.
http://www.cva.com/CVA-Store-View.php?id=504
Contrary to the next line in the description, it will help with blowby if your bushing is recessed in the frame.
Its very simple really.
http://www.cva.com/CVA-Store-View.php?id=504
The purpose of the Shim Kit is ONLY to bring your firing pin retainer flush with the frame
Last edited by Gm54-120; 09-28-2014 at 08:04 PM.
#13
Spike
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 5
Forgive the noob question. Cay are the primers your using made for muzzleloaders or for shotguns ? I haven't got into Blackhorn yet but am shooting the Remington clean shot ML primers out of my CVA and my breach plug doesn't get that bad. After three shots though I do pull it to clean it. The end where the powder sits gets cruded over and effects accuracy.
#14
If you shim the bushing correctly it wont be tight. The kit comes with several shims in different thicknesses.
Its very simple really.
http://www.cva.com/CVA-Store-View.php?id=504
Contrary to the next line in the description, it will help with blowby if your bushing is recessed in the frame.
Its very simple really.
http://www.cva.com/CVA-Store-View.php?id=504
Contrary to the next line in the description, it will help with blowby if your bushing is recessed in the frame.
"PLEASE READ BEFORE YOU PURCHASE
The purpose of the Shim Kit is ONLY to bring your firing pin retainer flush with the frame. This Shim Kit will NOT reduce the blow back caused from the use of 209 shot shell primers. If you attempt to force you firing pin retainer out beyond being level with the frame you make cause the rifle not open and or close. CVA is not responsible for any one that miss uses this shim kit. If you have any question or concerns about this kit due to any articles you may have read on the internet. Please fill free to contact us directly by clicking here now: http://www.cva.com/contact.php or calling us at 770-449-4687"
So I will call them... and see what they suggest.
CVAHunter the CCI are in a blue box and say, "shotshell" primers. They were suggested because they are supposed to be hot primers and I had some terrible ignition problems when first shooting Winchester W209 primers.
#15
Did you buy a Western BP, of CVA's version? If you bought the western version it comes with o-rings that are to placed under the primers. as was already mentioned in this thread.
You can also shim the housing that has been posted hundreds of times on forums. I'm surprised you don't know about it?
You can also shim the housing that has been posted hundreds of times on forums. I'm surprised you don't know about it?
#16
I remember talk of shimming the firing pin. And to be honest, wondered why I did not have to do that. But to be honest this is the first time it ever fouled so bad on me. And it is a CVA breech plug. I tried to call them and listened to some personality talk to me for ten minutes and decided I had enough of him.
Perhaps I tightened the firing pin in to hard last time I cleaned it? But I thought that is what your supposed to do.
Perhaps I tightened the firing pin in to hard last time I cleaned it? But I thought that is what your supposed to do.
#17
After having 7 CVA inlines. I having had one that was close to the right headspace. I'm sure yours needs to be shimmed.
I'm not concerned with shimming the FP housing if it sticks out a little. As long as the gun still closes the same as it does with no primer in it. In other words i don't want to slam the action closed that crushes the primer. I just want to take up the extra clearance.
Some guys will measure the primer after slamming the action shut for a certain crush fit. They want every little bit of blowback gone. I would rather have a safe gun, and I don't like the idea on crushing the primer on a loaded gun. Wiping off a little bit of fouling is no big deal to me. It's a muzzleloader.
You want blowback/ Shoot my Renegade with the 460gr NoExcuses that i'm using now. Now there's some blowback. Big deal. One swipe with a rag, and it's gone.
I'm not concerned with shimming the FP housing if it sticks out a little. As long as the gun still closes the same as it does with no primer in it. In other words i don't want to slam the action closed that crushes the primer. I just want to take up the extra clearance.
Some guys will measure the primer after slamming the action shut for a certain crush fit. They want every little bit of blowback gone. I would rather have a safe gun, and I don't like the idea on crushing the primer on a loaded gun. Wiping off a little bit of fouling is no big deal to me. It's a muzzleloader.
You want blowback/ Shoot my Renegade with the 460gr NoExcuses that i'm using now. Now there's some blowback. Big deal. One swipe with a rag, and it's gone.
#18
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,585
The two things normally causing blowback are the primer not held tight or the touch hold burnout enough to be enlarged. I change my vent liner at the point where I start getting a bit of blowback. If the primer seat has been cut sloppy then you may have to go to an O ring, Ron is the one to talk to about that, I do not know much about it as I have never needed to go that route.
#19
Frontier Gander on another forum where I posed this same post was nice enough to send me a link for O rings and explained they simply go in the primer pocket and end this problem. He said they last about 40 shots but can last longer. And for the price of them, they might well be worth the trial. I ordered some.