How to improve a goodin

[HEAD0001]

I ordered a new TVM FL to hunt with. And I am going to spend my woods time with that rifle this year.

However I also have a Knight LRH(50 caliber). It is about 6 years(or so) old. I have the rifle sighted in very well out to 225 yards with T-7 powder and TC sabots and bullets. The rifle is stock, with a Leupold 4.5X14 with the B&C reticle. I like the B&C reticle. But I also like the idea of the new Leupold CDS system. A friend wants the 4.5X14 so I am going to sell the scope to him, and purchase a new VX-3 in 3.5X10 with the CDS dial.

I am a member of a 1,000 yard BR club. And we do(obviously) alot of long range shooting.

I am wanting to set this LRH up to do long distance shooting.

Please understand that I am not real concerned about hunting long distance with the rifle. I am just wanting to play around with it, and do some long range shooting. I am talking to at least 300 yards, possibly a bit more.

Now I know alot of you guys are up on all the new bullets and powders and breech plugs and such. Even new primers. So I want to pick your brains a bit about these new products, especially since I am not up to date on them as well as I would like to be.

So here is my question. If you were to set a Knight LRH up for that type of shooting. What improvements would you do to the stock Knight LRH to improve the accuracy??

Would you change the breechplug?? Which breech plug would you use??

What bullet and sabot combination would you use??

What powder would you use?? Load volume(obviously to start with)?? What primers??

This should be a fun topic. Tell me exactly what you would do to that specific rifle in order to make it a 300 yard rifle on paper.

I really believe the rifle is capable of that accuracy. I have already been doing it to 225 with just the standard stock parts. And actually not alot of load work to get there. Thanks, Tom.

[Gm54-120]

Lehigh/Knight NFPJ Breach plug using whichever primer fits best in your gun. I really feel this improves not just a clean breach but keeps pressures more consistent. I prefer BH209 but Swiss has excellent shot to shot extreme spread and standard deviation. There must be some reason it is preferred at Friendship competitions.

I would choose .458 bullets with a high BC or maybe the Barnes/Knight .451 285gr Spitfire. Its has one of the highest real world BCs. The The Barnes O 300gr SS has about the best BC in the 458s. Usually BC is over rated but past 200 yards it becomes more important IMO. My best shooting 458 is the 300gr SOCOM with a BC of .236. Knurled in a MMP Orange or plain in a Harvester Yellow for BTs usually yields very nice groups with heavy loads.

Keep everything as consistent as possible including indexing sabots and loading pressure. I found the Knight/Lehigh range rod works very well for serious range work. It really gives you a good feel too while loading. I can usually tell as soon as i use a ramrod if something is wrong or feels different. Extend your cool down time to a solid 15 minutes between shots.

That should be a good start before moving on to more expensive improvement to the gun. A good bedding job would be on my list also

[HEAD0001]

Do you think the barrel should be floated?? Tom.

[Gm54-120]

Personally i prefer full length bedding but on a LRH laminate that might not be the best option. Eventually im adding another recoil lug to mine but im still not sure about the bedding. It will likely be full length since im using a composite stock that is already partially bedded and it fits the barrel very well.

IMO no rear lug is the wink link in the Knight design. Maybe not at first but after a lot of use it can loosen up a bit. Ive seen a few Elites with a little barrel/action "rocking". Adding a rear lug/bedding pillar would solve this permanently and improve Knights "floated" barrels.

Just an opinion.

[a1smokepole]

I have a LRH 50 cal first I pillerd bouth screws then bedded full length of stock and at the end of stock and the barrel let the filler go into the fluting of the barrel about 2" long this locks the barrel down and will not move and makes the barrel think it shorter if you are a 1000 yd shooter you no what this mines im one to to remove barrel lift from the bolt end and it wiil come wright up lift from other end and you can not pull apart
the vents in the stock will cool the bottom of the barrel and stop lifting of the barrel when hot but give cool down time and the stock you have will not move in changing wether this will give you a sold shooting frim for shooting big loads and stay that way
then get the lehigh breech plug and shot black horn 209 powder and harvester sabots for mag loads hope this helps you may want to use sub bases to help presser some