Finally Got to Shoot my New Percu.

50calty · 01-29-2011, 07:54 PM

Well I finally made it out on Friday to shoot my .54 TC Renegade. Have a GM barrel and a TC Hawken 1x scope on it. Didn't have it bore sighted, so most of the shooting was to get in on paper at 25 yards. So no target pics, cause I was all over until I got it sighted in. This was the first time I ever shot a sidelock. I was using hornady roundball .530 with a prelube .10 patch and 80 grains of Pyro. It loaded really easy, even shot it 8 times in a row without swabing. Almost too easy to load, might have to get a thicker patch. I was totally shocked that this gun had no kick! That heavy barrel must take alot of the recoil. I did do a stupied thing. Wasn't paying attention and loaded a ball without the powder. Ended up taking the nipple off, dumbing some powder down, and then shooting it out. No harm no foul, just a lesson learned. I did the same thing when I first shot a inline!! Probably will do it again when I buy a flintlock. Hopefully I can get out a shoot it next week and post pics. Have any of you guys use Simple Green to clean a percuss? Didn't have any Pine Sol left so I used Simple Green, came out really clean. I will have to change how I clean it though. I have the quick scope release rings, but when I submerged the barrel, water got under the scope base and I had to take that off to get the water cleaned up. Ordered the cleaning hose that Dixie Gun Works has. Remove the nipple and put on the cleaning nipple with the hose and clean the barrel. I thought that was neat. Should be less mess and no longer putting the barrel in the water!!! But I'm offically hooked on muzzleloading. I was with an Inline, but this percu has made it offical. I'm already chomping at the bit to shoot it again. Probably in the next two months I'm going to buy the Lyman Deer stalker in a .54 flintlock. Thats the only gun that I've seen that has a stock like the renegade. Just don't like the GPR stock style, doesn't fit me right.

Josmund · 01-30-2011, 03:22 AM

50,

I'm not as knowledgeable as many, well actually, most on this site but why submerge the barrel?

I just boil 2" of water, remove the nipple, dip the breech end in the water and pump the hot water through the barrel by running a patch up and down. Works like a charm and the outer barrel stays dry.

I'd like to know how the sight worked for you?

cayugad · 01-30-2011, 06:08 AM

If you want to shoot a .10 patch you need to go to a .535 ball. The Renegades I shoot, I use a .530 ball and .018 thick patch. I get my patches at Wal Mart in the fabric section. Get a yard of cotton blue stripe Pillow Tick. It will last you for ever. And its cheap. Lube your own patches.

I use quick release rings on my Renegade. I remove the scope and then treat it like it were any other traditional rifle. I fill a plastic coffee can with soapy water and submerge the nipple under the water. Dip a patch in the water and pump that through the rifle. This cleans the nipple for you. Then let the water drain out, and remove the nipple. Now do a couple more patches and it will really move some water through the barrel. This cleans the bolster for you at the same time.

Yes I use Simple Green (I buy it by the gallon) and it is one of the best cleaners for about anything you want to clean, that I have found. For swabbing INLINES I mix it very weak. For cleaning a Traditional rifle, good spill over cap full in the coffee can is all I use. That stuff really cuts fouling. And it even smells half way nice.

If you want a Lyman that looks like your Renegade look at the Trade Rifle. It has a 1-48 twist, little brass, a great trigger, and are real shooters. Although from all I read, the Deer stalker is a good shooter also. So the choice would be hard. I have the Trade Rifle and just love to shoot it. Mine is a flintlock as well.

lemoyne · 01-30-2011, 06:16 AM

There is a large tolerance on muzzle loading barrels. My Renegade shoots its best with a .535 ball and an 18 thousands patch.

rafsob · 01-30-2011, 06:38 AM

One problem I have Dave when cleaning with the barrel end in the can of water is I get some water on the outside of the barrel. But I will then use WD-40 after wiping down the barrel. I will spray it on the barrel and then wipe it off. I have yet to have any problem with rust around the scope base or the iron sights.

I will admit sometimes I can be very messy.

50calty · 01-30-2011, 07:12 AM

I didn't mean submerge the whole barrel, just the nipple part. But I still had water between the scope base and barrel. We'll see if the clean nipple/tube works. It sure would save on the mess. I do have some pillow tick, might try that the next time. I like the trade rifle for looks etc, but that curved butt stock. It just doesn't fit me at all. That was the only reason im looking at the deer stalker. It has the straight butt stock.
http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/m...lker-rifle.php

And Josmund I really like the 1x power Hawken scope. Didnt have a need for a varible and found this one used, but its almost new. No powder burns or scope ring marks. Bought the Warne Quick Release Scope mounts and they seem to work. Will know next time when I shoot. Just to see if it holds zero.

Rafsob, did you ever buy that Seneca????

rafsob · 01-30-2011, 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 50calty

Rafsob, did you ever buy that Seneca????

No. I endded up buying an old model Contender (sn#73**) in great shape. It came with two old barrels as well. Great deal on the price.

I did find a good looking flintlock at the local gun show. It looked to be in great shape at a distance. However, the frisen had a lot of corrosion and when I ran a bore light down the barrel, I found a lot of pitting! They wanted $450 for the gun. I told the owner that it was badly pitted and he said no it didn't. I let him look down the barrel and that shut him up. I removed the light and he took his gun and went away mad.

I only told the truth.

Semisane · 01-30-2011, 11:30 AM

I know I'm a little weird with this, but on my three ProDiamond scoped Renegades I remove the nipple and clean out screw then submerge the breech end - with the scope attached - in a gallon plastic jug and pump the bore. Now the rear of the scope extends about three inches beyond the rear end of the barrel, so that scope is submerged right up to the adjustment turrets. After drying the barrel with a towel I blast the area between the scope base and barrel with carburetor cleaner then add a little oil. Haven't had one of those scopes leak yet and have no sign of rust between the barrel and scope base.

rafsob · 01-30-2011, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Semisane

After drying the barrel with a towel I blast the area between the scope base and barrel with carburetor cleaner then add a little oil. Haven't had one of those scopes leak yet and have no sign of rust between the barrel and scope base.

Hey Semi, that carburator cleaner is a little harsh on the finish on the scope. Why not try using WD-40 instead. It will displace the water and has an oil in the formula that will give you a once application instead of two. Just a thought. I learned the WD-40 trick from the N-SSA shooters.

Now considering the fact that these guys shoot originals more then repros and are anal about their guns, I would think this is probably some good advice.

Semisane · 01-30-2011, 12:38 PM

I do use WD-40 now and again rafsob. But I usually have the carburator on hand because I give the bore a good blast through the clean out screw hole after pumping it with water and drying it with a patch. When I first started using it I was a little concerned about the scope/base finish. But it doesn't seem to do them any harm. I just make sure I don't get it on the lense because I suspect it may remove the coating.