TRADITIONAL RIFLE….
When I clean a traditional rifle it is almost always done in steps so I will list it that way I do it. Other people have different methods. The main thing is get the rifle clean....
Traditional rifles
1. Insure that the rifle you are about to clean is UNLOADED!! I can not stress the importance of this. Put the ramrod in the barrel. The ramrod will all but disappear in an unloaded rifle. If you **** the hammer, and push a patch down a rifle, normally you will hear air escape through the nipple. This also is an indication that there is not a load in the rifle.
2. **** the hammer to the half **** position. Now knock the wedge pin(s) out of the stock to release the barrel. And remove the barrel from the rifle. This is a good time to wipe all the fowling off the outside of the barrel with Windex or some other kind of cleaner, and a cloth in the nipple/bolster breech area of the barrel. It is not necessary to remove the nipple from the rifle just yet.
Some rifles are not held together with a wedge pin hooked breech design. For these you need a flush kit. The flush kit is a nipple that goes in place of the nipple of vent hole liner of your rifle. Off that nipple is a tube that is then placed into a bucket of water so water can be moved through the barrel.
3. Have your water source ready. I use a plastic coffee can as they do not rust. I fill that ¾ of the way to the top with VERY HOT (some people do not use hot water, but use cold instead. Its all a matter of preference I guess) water and then give it a squirt of your favorite dish soap, or cleaning product that will be water soluble. Now immerse the breech end of the rifle barrel under that water level so the nipple is covered. Dip a cloth patch of appropriate size into the water to saturate it. And with a tight fitting cleaning jag, work that wet patch down the bore of the rifle in short strokes. Working to the bottom or breech of the barrel. Bring the patch back up and out of the barrel. Work that down the barrel a few times to pump water in and out of the barrel. If you look in the bucket you will notice the small ripples in the water and the water in the barrel is forced out.
4. Lift the barrel out of the water and let the water run out the nipple of the barrel, and if you can, or want to, remove the bolster clean out screw do so. You have actually cleaned the fowling now out of the nipple since you left it in for the first of the water patches. Now remove the nipple out of the barrel.
5. Repeat this step #3 with a second and third patch. NO MATTER HOW CLEAN THEY LOOK. You should also note that with the removal of the nipple and in some cases the bolster clean out screw, an increased of volume water is moving out the openings and you pump those other patches through. This is cleaning out the bolster for you.
6. Now pull the barrel and make sure all the water has drained out of the barrel as possible. I now like to dip a fussy pipe cleaner in solvent and push that into and past the nipple port threads as deep as I can get it to go into the breech. Then work that back and fourth to insure that there is no fowling in that area of the rifle. If the bolster clean out screw is out, do the same thing with the pipe cleaner in that area. You should be able to force that pipe cleaner all the way into the breech. Simply check the depth you have moved that pipe cleaner into the breech and then hold that against the outside of the barrel. It might surprise you how deep you have moved into that area.
7. With a solvent patch, I now like to swab the bore of the rifle. Pay special attention to the breech area. Some rifles have a cone shaped breech design. It may be necessary to put a breech/cone scraper attachment on the ramrod and reach in there and physically scrape that cone clean. Often times this can be done with a 30 caliber cleaning brush on your favorite rifle ramrod. All you want to do is clean that cone. Normally it is clean.
8. Another strong solvent swab is now worked down the barrel. Pay attention to any signs of fowling on that swab. If there is any, then another patch with solvent is put down. If the patch comes out clean (as normally they do) put some isopropyl alcohol on a patch and swab the bore. The alcohol will help displace the moisture in the barrel.
9. If you have access to a air compressor, I like to blow forced air through the nipple port and bolster clean out screw area. This helps dry it.
10. Now start to dry patch the bore of the rifle. Do not stop until you can check that patch and note there is no moisture on it. Also the patch should show no signs of fowling.
11. Swab the bore of your rifle now with a patch saturated with your favorite gun oil. You want a good coat on that. Set the barrel off to the side, to cool. As it cools it will draw the oils into the pores of the metal.
12. Now is when I clean the lock. Check the nose of the hammer for old caps. Remove any stuck cap pieces from the nose of the hammer. Fill that with solvent and let it sit a few seconds. Now with Q-tips wipe its nose. Keep cleaning until the nose of the thing is clean. The Q-tip will show this.
13. Solvent a patch and slide that behind the hammer and clean all the lock area you can get to. Pay special attention to the inside of the bolster where the nipple goes back to. Make sure that is nice and clean.
14. Wipe out the stock of the rifle.
15. Wipe down the outside of the rifle with the oil patch you used to swab the bore. Pay special attention to the bottom of the barrel. People often forget this area only to find rust at a later time.
16. Replace the nipple and bolster clean out screw. I like to put a dab of anti seize on the threads of the nipple. It helps them come out better next time. Wipe your finger prints off the barrel and replace it in your stock. Now while gripping only the stock put the rifle away. Your rifle is clean.
If there is someone you know that shoots muzzleloader, ask them to let you shoot with them. You can learn tons of information from a shooter. And do not be afraid to ask questions about anything that concerns you, on this forum. We are more then glad to answer them for you. There are no stupid questions.
To shoot the rifle.. you need powder, projectile, caps, short starter, measuring device (powder measure), cleaning/loading jag, solvent or isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) & cleaning patches
Make sure the rifle is clean and empty. So take a patch, lightly apply some isopropyl alcohol and swab the bore of the rifle. When you swab, put the patch over the end of the barrel and push the ramrod with the cleaning/loading jag into the patch. As you work the patch down the bore, work the patch in short strokes. Work from the muzzle to the breech. This is done in the beginning to remove any gun oils in the barrel. After the damp patch, then work two dry patches through the bore. With a dry patch pushed down to the breech, put a #11 cap or musket cap, which ever one your rifle takes, and pop that cap. Now pull that dry patch and check for burn marks on the patch. If you see none, do it again. Once you see the burn mark, I like to pop one more cap. Now you are ready to load the rifle.
Measure out the amount of powder you wish to shoot in your rifle. You can pour the powder from the jug into a powder measure, but never pour from the jug into the barrel of the rifle. So now you have a measured charge of powder down the barrel. Take a patch and if it is not pre lubed, apply the lube to it. Set that over the muzzle of the bore. Now put a round ball onto the patch. With the short starter, knock that ball under the crown. Now with the long nose of the short starter, push the patch and ball as deep as you can, into the barrel. Finish seating the ball and patch with the ramrod.
If you are shooting conical bullets, after you have dumped the powder, put the lubed conical (if the conical requires lube) and with the short starter, drive that conical as deep as you can into the bore. Now finish seating the conical onto the powder charge. Make sure you do so firmly.
Now c0ck the hammer of the rifle back. And place a cap or musket cap onto the nipple. Carefully lower the hammer down to half c0ck. Once you c0ck that rifle it is ready to fire.
In your .54 caliber Hawkins, I would try 80-90 grains of 2f powder. Either Pyrodex RS or Black Powder. Then a .018 cotton patch, be sure to lube the patch, and some .530 or .535 ball.
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"Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, a total wreck, screaming Yahoo, with a big smile on your face."
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