Brand new here and wanted to run this across you guys. I bought theT/C triumph last year and it came with a 777 crud ring free, i zeroed it last year and it grouped well. Cleaned and let it set over the summer and now groups are about 3 inches at 100 yards, i have made no changes and the crud ring has improved some.
Has the temperature changed from the last time you shot? Heat can set them off. You said nothing has changed, like swabbing formula or method? The powder is older, but other then that there is no reason for what it is doing.
What I would do is take some solvent and a brush and scrub the bore. Then solvent patch it. Then dry patch it. Then hit the range and see what happens.
I have had rifles do the same thing. One time they are deadly accurate and the next time they shoot twice the size of the group they did before.
I normally blame myself for that. The way I am holding. Is there anticipation of the shot. The scope sight pictures. Where the rifle sits on the bench rest. All sorts of things I do that can change a rifle.
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3" at 100 yds is nothing to sneeze at, so I would not be worried.
You say the crud ring has improved somewhat, so I'm not sure it has ever been removed completely, or if you are saying you still get it but not as bad as before. Anyway, there should be no crud ring after the gun is cleaned.
Muzzleloading has quite a few inherent variables. Sabots are temperature sensitive. It is common to hear that a gun shoots very well during November sight in sessions, but shoots not so well when it is taken to the range the next summer. Ambient temperature, and the barrel not cooling as quickly in the summer are factors. Another factor is old powder/new powder.
Don't know if you shoot sabots or not, but a bullet like a Hornady FPB takes one variable out of the equation, which to me is a big plus.
We all have opinions here and most aren't too shy about expressing theirs...
I tried 777 in my Knight, had a terrible crud ring, took the JB Bore paste to her and cleaned it up...
I'll never put 777 in her again, I learned my lesson...I went back to Pyrodex R-S and Goex FFF...I shoot flintlocks as well and unless I find Pyrodex on sale cheap, I stick with Goex...I get good groups, cleanup is easy and it kills deer...Don't really know what else one would want...
Thanks fellas, I bought the gun used from a guy in a tight spot, the crud ring was there and i cant get it out...at all. I have have tried everthing except a dremmel. The weather is the bigest change as it was zeroed in the 1st of November last year. I am currently shooting 3 777 pellets-250 gr superglide shockwave with Federal primers (the ones in the blue box). I have now tried 3 different primers and loose power. Taking in some lunch and letting her cool, just got some harvester crush ribs from a friend and some 45 caliber 250 grain pistol bullets from the "mart". be trying them this evening. Again thanks guys, and thanks for the welcome.
i dont know what yall are talking about crud ring ,,i asume it would be from continued
shooting a ring might develop where the powder charge sits all the time,,is this it,,,,
ive had my cva a long time and i clean it right after and during shooting.she shines like a babys behind..i also use home made solvent that cleans great.
vermont...it happens with some guns when shooting 777...Funny thing is, I have a buddy that has a Optima with a stainless barrel and his doesn't get it...
I agree about the jb bore paste. Sure made my barrel clean as a whistle and took some rough spots out. My accuracy increased too after a good cleaning.I've used 777 for years and i have never had a serious ring problem in my gun. Especially since I started a regimen of swabbing with a windex damp cleaning patch between shots.
It is quite possibly something loosen up, Start by checking the rings and mounts if they are OK check the bolt that holds the stock and action together.
If you have not been cleaning out the breach plug between the 209 seat and the touch hole take a 1/8 inch drill and clean the carbon out.
Triumph loosing accuracy
