Are CVA's safe?
05-28-2010, 07:32 PM
#21
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,585
On your question about which caliber is best.
A 50 is best for Sabot [45 is also good] and because of recoil I would say they are better for conical.
The 54 is the long range round ball gun it has a much better BC and foot pounds of energy while still being light enough to load up to 2000 FPS.
Some like a 58 which is a hard hitter but uses a ball that is heavy enough that the recoil would be bad if you could get them to shoot at 2000 FPS and the twist in any of the commercial barrels is not designed for high speed a 1-100 would be about what I would want.
The safety issue will always be a problem with CVA because of the names past history,
they make some decent guns now. Don't believe that it was only inlines that had a problem the one that put shrapnel in me was a side lock.
It had a laminated barrel and was not over loaded.
The better companies use a sonar test to eliminate that problem. If you are not comfortable with that barrel take it to a good gun smith to be checked if it had much rust on it have it checked or if the bore is rough you might consider a new barrel.
A 50 is best for Sabot [45 is also good] and because of recoil I would say they are better for conical.
The 54 is the long range round ball gun it has a much better BC and foot pounds of energy while still being light enough to load up to 2000 FPS.
Some like a 58 which is a hard hitter but uses a ball that is heavy enough that the recoil would be bad if you could get them to shoot at 2000 FPS and the twist in any of the commercial barrels is not designed for high speed a 1-100 would be about what I would want.
The safety issue will always be a problem with CVA because of the names past history,
they make some decent guns now. Don't believe that it was only inlines that had a problem the one that put shrapnel in me was a side lock.
It had a laminated barrel and was not over loaded.
The better companies use a sonar test to eliminate that problem. If you are not comfortable with that barrel take it to a good gun smith to be checked if it had much rust on it have it checked or if the bore is rough you might consider a new barrel.
05-28-2010, 09:25 PM
#22
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Currently in Virginia
Posts: 12
Thanks for all the info. I got the bore cleaned out, the bucket trick helped a lot! After removing half a sabot, a ton of old powder, rust, and gunk, and just working with it for a couple hours, I got the barrel looking great! The land and grooves are very well defined, and it shined up real nice. Then the jag broke off, with a chunk of old t-shirt wrapped around it, and is stuck in the back end of the bore. I still can't get it out, it's jammed good. But all the rust is basically surface rust. I'll have some pitting, but nothing too bad. I'm going to strip the barrel and re-blue it as practice for the kit I want to build. I think it'll make a fine rifle. Oh, and no worries, I'm taking it to a gunsmith that specializes in black powder. It just so happens I'm heading back to Oregon, and there's a muzzleloading specialty shop in my hometown that'll look at it.
05-29-2010, 07:51 AM
#23
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Boncarbo,Colorado
Posts: 9,186
the only thing you have to worry about with a sidelock is the condition of the threads inside of the bolster. If they are rusted/broken, you may want to have a gunsmith install a new bolster or drill/tap for an over sized nipple.
I'd just shoot that jag out. Remove the nipple, dribble some 2f or 3f blackpowder down there, reinstall nipple and pull the trigger. It will come right out and you should be able to find it a short distance away.
I'd just shoot that jag out. Remove the nipple, dribble some 2f or 3f blackpowder down there, reinstall nipple and pull the trigger. It will come right out and you should be able to find it a short distance away.
05-29-2010, 08:20 AM
#24
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Currently in Virginia
Posts: 12
The threads look great. The bolster was rusty, but an hour soaking in hopps #9 followed by some wire brush work has it looking great. It fits tight and proper. I just realized that the answer to my problem is basically 'pack explosives behind it and blow the problem out of the way.' Finally! A problem I can fix with explosions! Ha ha. Don't worry, i'll be safe when I do it.
07-01-2010, 07:55 AM
#25
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Currently in Virginia
Posts: 12
Worked like a charm! A few bucks slipped to my gunsmith ensured that everything is working great, a few new parts, and I have a nice little carbine worth twice what I have invested in it, and that's before rebluing. Thanks all, for all the great info!
07-01-2010, 08:49 AM
#26
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Licking County, Ohio
Posts: 1,264
Roger Raglin shoots and advertises them on his show. I'm sure that all newer CVA's are up to date with any past safety issues. As for your older rifle, I would go with some of the good advise you have already been given.
