Lee REAL Conicals

[Sharp Shooter]

So how many of you guys have tried REAL conicals? What weights have you tried and what do you think of them? How do they work on game? I am thinking about trying them in my 54cal and or my 58cal. Does anyone know where I can buy some to try out before I buy a mold?

Thanks
Kirk

[bronko22000]

Sharp - I have used the 50 cal in 250 and 320 gr with some success. Currently I do not have a 50 cal that likes the 250 gr REAL but my Lyman GPH like the 320 gr with 80 gr of FFg BP. Although I was happy with the performance, the couple of deer that I shot with them were not too fond of them.
I've never tried them in any other caliber.

[HEAD0001]

I ran across a good deal on one of the 50 caliber molds, so I picked it up. I casted some bullets the other evening, but I have not shot them yet. So all I can give is a casting report.

I had a lot of reject bullets. The mold did not cast very well. However I did get some good ones. And for as cheap as the mold is I think you have to take the good with the bad. But I would not recommend the mold for anyone that wanted to do some high volume.

I have the 50 caiber 250 grain mold. I am sure the bullet would be devastating on deer.

The bullet seems to have great bearing surface, however I think the lube grooves are a bit shallow, and the bottoms and the tops are rounded insted of being squared off. So I think you would pull the lube out of the grooves when you load the bullet.

Ther cavity in the bottom is pretty big. Anbd the bottom of the bullet(or base) is pretty thin. So I think the bullet would obturate very quickly, and very well.

I also bought one of the Lyman 50 caliber molds that mold the 395 grain bullet. I am going to cast some of them in the near future. As soon as I get them molded I will post pictures of the two different bullets.

I wish I would have gotten the heavier Lee mold. However the one I got was basically given to me. So why not try it.

I think the 250 is too light because IMO the bullet should be able to be driven up to about 1800 fps or so, and that is too fast to drive pure lead(or WW) out of a rifle with small lube grooves. That is probably why shooters are having a problem with them.

IF you keep the velocity at about 1400 fps then the bullet should fly great. However you can get a heavier bullet to do the same velocity.The recoil on a 250 REAL at 1400 fps would be minimal. However it would still be deadly. Just remember you are still pushing a comparable bullet to a 44 magnum(only larger in diameter)velocity or slightly higher.

I am going to try these in my flintlock. And if the rain stops I will be trying them this weekend. Tom.

[HEAD0001]

Bronko I would like to trade you something for a hand full of those 320's. Is there anything you could use I might have?? And what type of lube are you using for those 320's?? And are the lube grooves deeper than the 250's, or is the hollow base cavity smaller?? I am using Carnuba Red for my lube, and it might be a bit too hard?? Tom.

[cayugad]

In .50 caliber Iuse (and cast) the 250 & 320 grain. Some 1-48 rifles will shoot them well. Keep the powder charge low and you get better accuracy. The 1-28 will do better and you can boost the powder charge a little.

In .54 caliber I use (and cast) the 300 and 380 grain. My Renegade likes the 300 grain and 80 grains of black powder. I've shot a lot of deer with them and they work very well. In fact I have a friend with a T/C Hawkins that only hunts with his .54 and the 300 grain REALs. He's knocked a lot of deer down. I also used to know a person that had a CVA inline in .54 caliber. I will not swear to the twist it had (we are talking many years ago) but I gave him some 300 grain REALs and he liked them so much he bought his own mold.

On thing about the REAL conicals I found is out to 75 yards they do real well. After that, they start to stray all over the place. But where I hunt, that's not a problem. Also some rifles like a wad under the conical and some rifles do not.