Got the new Hawken

[bronko22000]

Received my new - used T/C Hawken silver anniversy 1 of 500 today in the mail. I like it. The trigger was as described and I took it off and sent the trigger assembly out to T/C to have it repaired. I was going to throw in one of the triggers from anothe Hawken but the set up is entirely different. Unlike the models I have, therre is a 1/4" or so hole in the front of the trigger assembly. The front tang screw goes completely through the stock, through the front of the trigger assembly and into the front of the trigger guard.

[Semisane]

Hey Bronko, I can't quite make out the pictures. New guns is fun. How's the bore?

[bronko22000]

Well Semi that sort of has me pi**ed. I just spent about 3 hours scrubbing it with a bronze brush and JB compound, solvent, and about 100 patches. I got all the rust out of it but the bore is lined with tiny pits. I sure hope it shoots alright. It should. Just that I should have been forewarned. Its amazing how people either just don't know what they have or the value of it. This is a Silver Anniversary Edition 1 of 500. Georgeous wood, stainless hardware. Really pretty rifle. If I can't get this barrel to shoot well, I just may make a plug and lap it.
Also, I just may get a GM Stainless barrel for it so Dave isn't the only one with a stainless Hawken.

[bronko22000]

Well today, between doing the things on the "honey do" list I put a couple of wet patched down the bore melted down some lead and put a new 50 cal bronze brush in it and made me a lapping plug. took out the plug and the wet patches, ran an oil patch down the bore, put some JB sompound on the plug and started working it in and out of the bore. I'd lap 50 full strokes, then clean and check, repeat, repeat. I finally got the bore like new after about an hour or so. The only area I couldn't clean up is about the first inch in from the muzzle. But I think that will be OK. If not, I may take it to my gunsmith and have him bore that out and make it a QLA.
We'll se how it shoots.
Semi, The pics will be on this week just for you.

[Semisane]

Hey Bronko. I've never made a lead lapping plug like that. Would appreciate a more detailed description of the process. How far down did you put the wet patches? How far into the bore did you put the brush? How long was the plug (I assume the length of the brush)? Was it difficult to pull out the plug after you poured the lead. Do you lose much/any rifling depth after lapping?

[gearheart]

+1 please yes. Details I have a barrel that looks frosted with pits. Sure would like to try to rescue it.

[bronko22000]

I found this process several years ago reading an old book on rifles.
NOTE: J B Compound will not remove the steel but will only polish the bore. You need something more abrasive if you have to remove heavy pits. Of course this will also roung off the rifling edges more too. Lap only as much as necessary.
1. I pushed two patches down the bore wetted with #13 BP solvent (but plain water will do) This is a step I put in because I didn't want any molten lead going all the way down the barrel and possibly getting hung up at the flashhole. Dont worry though, the lead will not stick to the steel.
2. Take a clean or new bronze brush and apply some flux to it and slide it down the bore leaving just thethreads stick out. (To attach the ram rod later.)
3. Melt down the lead getting it good an hot. I just put 3 or 4 .54 cal balls in my pouring ladel and use a hand torch).
4. When the lead is getting a bluish tint to it, pour it into the bore all around the brush. (I put the barrel in a vise just tight enough to hold it and protected by a leather glove or some wooden shims.)
Don't worry if you get spillover - just try not to get any on the brass threads.
5. Attach your ramrod or range rod to the plug when it cools (solidifies) and pull it out. Trim off any excess lead with wire cutters and file a bevel on the back end (threaded end). The cold barrel may not allow the lead to flow all the way to the far end of the brush. But that's fine. You only need about an inch of plug. You can cut off the excess brush if you wish.
6. Berfore you begin lapping, be sure to get a patch worm and pull out the wet patches.
7. Run an oil patch down the bore.
8. Now you can begin lapping. I like to use a mild abrasive like JB compound but you can use auto polishing compound and for really bad barrels bathroom cleanser (Comet). But be careful, this stuff is really abrasive).
9. When you apply the abraisive, CAREFULLY ALIGN the plug with the rifling in the bore.I like to start it with my fingers before I screw on the range rod. When the plug and rifling of the bore alignyou will freel it engage (like gears). Remember, this plug is ONLY for this bore.
10. During the lapping it is best to use a range rod with a T handle that you can loosen and allow the plug to follow the rifling as it moves in and out of the bore.
I usually lap a little run some clean patchs down, inspect, repeat as necessary.
If done properly the lapping will have a minimal effect on the rifling. I'm sure it does remove some of it and it may round the edges of it a bit but IMO its better than a rusty barrel.

[bronko22000]

I got the muzzle end of the bore polished. Found an excellent lapping compound that isn't too awful abrasive.
Its Kit Scratch Out. Comes in a yellow bottle. You can pick it up at Wally world in the automotive section.
The bore is shining like new now all the way through. Can't wait to get the trigger back from T/C so I can start shooting it.
Going to try PRBs first.

[Semisane]

Thanks for the tutorial Bronko.

[gearheart]

DITTO on the thanks. Now I know another cool trick.