Have a question on Pennsylvania and whether or not we can use the Shockwave Bullets. If anyone here in PA hunts muzzeloder in the late season, can we use any of them/Shockwaves? If so, what type are you huys using? I am looking into makin the switch from balls to bullets and would like some feedback on them ....Thanks,
This is from the PA Game Commission web site regarding the Flintlock deer season ...
Flintlock Season - Flintlock ignition, single-barrel long guns
manufactured prior to 1800, or a similar reproduction of an original
muzzleloading single-barrel long gun 44 caliber or larger, or 50 caliber
or larger handgun, using a single projectile. It is unlawful to use
telescopic sights.
You can use Shockwaves. I use round ball for this hunt.
Have a question on Pennsylvania and whether or not we can use the Shockwave Bullets. If anyone here in PA hunts muzzeloder in the late season, can we use any of them/Shockwaves? If so, what type are you huys using? I am looking into makin the switch from balls to bullets and would like some feedback on them ....Thanks,
JKC
I hunt the PA late season with FL and sabots. Shockwaves were designed for long shots with scopes, most shot with a FL are < 50 yards with open sights. Therefore I don't recommend their use for FLs with Open sights. I switched from Round balls to Speer Gold Dot 300g with a Crushed rib sabot, shooting 80g of Goex in myTC Hawken with a 21" Green Mountain carbine barrel. The reason I shoot Gold Dots is they are inexpensive, $17 for 50 and they hold together, expand well and are excellent bullets for "close work". If ya wanna spend more, then go to a Nosler Partion 300g, a Barnes MZ 300g or a Barnes TSX Flat Nose 45/70 300g, Barnespart number 45843. Those are strong excellent bullets.
Some shoot XTPs 300g again because of cost, that is a good bullet also for FLs.
Chap
PS You can of course shoot 250g or even 200g bullets with sabots. I like the heavier, slow and big penetrate deeply.
Chap
__________________
Chapman Gleason
Purcellville Va
http://www.the-gleasons.com
I use the SST/SW type bullets in my inlines that are setup to shoot 150 to 200 yards. My flintlock is set up for 100 yards or less. In the .50 cal flintlock I use Hornady .44cal XTP in a green sabot. The XTP's have worked very well for me.
When the primitive season started back in the 70s it was round ball only. Now you can use whatever single projectile you can shove down the barrel. Still needs to be flintlock ignition.
__________________ PLEASE NOTE THAT DUE TO THE RISING COST IN AMMO PRICES I WILL NO LONGER BE FIRING A WARNING SHOT.
A government big enough to give you everything you want is big enough to take away everything you have.
I'm not as good as I'm gonna get - but I'm better than I used to be. "Life without God is like an unsharpened pencil - it has no point."
Thanks to all who have replied, but I have one more question. Do I have to use 50 calibre sabots specifically, or can i use 45 calibre etc. In other words, when buying sabots, do i have to buy 50 calibre? Oh, One more...Should i stick with 90 grains? Thanks for all of the help...
If your rifle is 50 cal, then you will need .50 cal sabots. There are several to choose from. I suggest that you start with a .50 cal sabot that accepts a .452 cal bullet (45 long colt) or a .50 cal sabot that accepts a .430 cal bullet (44 mag). You may want to try bullet weights from 240 gr to 300 gr. Hornady (as well as others) sells the sabot and bullets in small packs. This is a good way to test several combinations until you find the one that shoots the best for you.
90 gr of loose powder should be fine for whitetail deer. I would start at 80 gr and work up to 90 gr in 5 gr increments and see what your rifle likes.
The sabots have to be the diameter of your barrel or they will not fit.
The powder charge, anything 70-110gr is fine, but you need to test to see what is accurate with your chosen bullet in your gun and go from there.
I know Chap doesn't like them but I've shot plenty of deer at close ranges with Shockwaves and had nothing but good luck. To each their own. If I were to choose a flintlock bullet I'd probably choose a hollowpoint though.
Remember that "most" flintlocks will NOT shoot sabots accurately. They have a slow twist made for roundballs. If the twist rate on your barrel is slower than 1:48", don't bother trying sabots IMO. 1:48 I've gotten 250gr and lighter sabots to shoot well. There are some flintlocks out there with fast twist 1:28" barrels specifically made for sabots, but they are the exception rather than the norm.
PA depending on your barrel's diameter (inside) you may find it difficult to seat a saboted bullet. If they are too tight, you may want to try Harvester Crushed Rib sabots. These also come in 50 cal for either 44 or 45 cal bullets.
Also, if you decide on the 50 cal sabots for 45 cal bullets, be sure you get the 45 cal pistol bullets which measure .451 or .452". Rifle bullets have a diameter of .458" which would be too big to load.
__________________ PLEASE NOTE THAT DUE TO THE RISING COST IN AMMO PRICES I WILL NO LONGER BE FIRING A WARNING SHOT.
A government big enough to give you everything you want is big enough to take away everything you have.
I'm not as good as I'm gonna get - but I'm better than I used to be. "Life without God is like an unsharpened pencil - it has no point."
Thanks to all who have replied, but I have one more question. Do I have to use 50 calibre sabots specifically, or can i use 45 calibre etc. In other words, when buying sabots, do i have to buy 50 calibre? Oh, One more...Should i stick with 90 grains? Thanks for all of the help...
JKC
Yes, you use a 50 cal sabot and a 45 cal bullet. The actual bullet diameters are .450, .451, .452 and .458. As for the 90 grains, if that is shooting good for your then stick with it with Sabots and bullets. However sometimes the sabots take a different load, so ya gotta experiment a bit.
Chap
__________________
Chapman Gleason
Purcellville Va
http://www.the-gleasons.com
Pennsylvania and Shockwave Bullets
