New rifle project-What to do?

[FG]

I got my Maple stock in today, its based off of the CVA Mountain rifle with a .965" barrel channel. I tried my .54cal barrel and would have to shave a few thousandths off each side in order for the .54 to drop down into the stock. However, the .58cal barrel that deercreek sells is the same 1" barrel as my .54 so thats my idea, Build a .58 mountain rifle and shape the stock the way i want it and outfit it with a silver nose cap and browned barrel/trim.

See any problems with me widening the barrel channel? Pros/cons?

[thumper50]

FG; 17 thousands on a side and bottom ain't very much! Go for it. Your work on coreys rifle is any sign of your quality work, better do it!!

[FG]

I'll have my hands full as it looks like i will have to make my own patch box. Last owner did some beautiful carving but no production box that i can find. I'll upload some pics after i am finished inletting the lock. Just a little more to go!

[FG]

Lock done! i refuse to do any more work until i have the trim for it. Well maybe widen the barrel channel tonight...
Any clue what patch box?

[FG]

15 minutes with a sand paper wrapped file did the job smoothly! Now all i need is the .58 barrel for her and the trim.This is turning out to be a really fun project.

I think the wood is sugar maple. I wet the stock and i didnt see any curl so i figure its the sugar maple stock that they used to come with in kit form.

[FG]

The .58 will be ready to drop right in! I need to do some touch up sanding in the lock area and the tang area to smooth it up but other than that, everything is ready. I will start on the stock shape tomorrow and look on TOTW for stains. I was thinking LMF Honey?

[Buck Hunter 1]

Fg, been watching your posts on these sites for a while and this fixing and refinishing bug has got hold of me. I would value your opinion on this post , I have it on MM but i don't know if you go there. Thanks in advance!
tore into the DeerStalker last night and took the entire gun down to wood. I have not sealed the inside yet . I am finishing w/ hand rubbed coats of Tung oil finish. I was going to use a Qtip to get a coat of tung oil on the internal wood for a seal of some sorts. It was pretty rough and crusty w/ sawdust,woodchips inside so I am glad I took it all down. I don't think I want to mess with the wood (smoothing or anything)?
The internal metal parts, do I clean them, oil them or do what w/ them? I was thinking of cleaning w/ a toothbrush and butchs bore shine, alcohol wipe, dry and the Rem oil w/ teflon. I am having fun and haven't shot the doggone thing yet.

[FG]

For the inside of the lock i use birchwood casey molly lube. You have to be careful to remember not to lay the lock down on the carpet the next time you remove it but other than that, its great for the guts of the lock. I never used tung oil before but every stock i redo, gets 2 or 3 coats of tru oil into the barrel channel/lock area/tang area. Thats the main area that i worry about, especially in wet weather.

If you use hot soapy water to clean the internal parts thats fine, along with a tooth brush. Afterwards you can coat them in alchol and then hit them with either the molly lube or your choice of gun oil.

[lemoyne]

Triaminic acid to bring out the grain ,strips or curly and Tung nut oil is the original way of doing it it is the way my Grand father taught me 60 years ago, it is really interesting to build one from scratch. It has been 35 years since I did that and as I don't have a forge any more I wont be doing it again. When you have the wood completely smooth the apply a heavy coat of tung nut oil and let it set for a day[the old German gunsmith that worked in my shop liked to scrap the stock done with a piece of glass at this point] then every day for a couple of weeks apply some more and rub it out. it makes an outstanding finish an can be renewed at any point in time by applying a bit of tung nut oil and rubbing it out. Lee

[FG]

Lee, I will try the tung oil this time. Any idea where to order?