Bullet casting question

[bronko22000]

Guys, I didn't have any 45 cal bullets for my new barrel coming from GM and mentioned it to my buddy. We went down to his loading room and he dug out a brand new Lyman Maxiball mould and handles still in the box and gave them to me. I casted about 50 bullets last night to see how they shoot but they were sticking in the mould and I had to bump the mould on the table to get them to release.
Is there anything I can put on the mould or in the lead to reduce this problem?

[Johnmorris]

The best way is to smoke the mould with a candle this will help. The best way is to hit the mould with a wooden dowel or plastic hammer where it hinges this will drop the bullet loose and not harm the mould. I have been doing it this way for years.

[lv2tinker]

The Maxi-Ball bulllets won't just drop-out because of the deep lube groves. One thing you can do is to "smoke" the mould with wooden kitchen matches. Help's bullet fill-out and helps "some" to release the bullet. Also, I use a sawed-off broom handle to whack the mould handles (NOT the mould) in order to get the bullets to drop free. (Turn the mould upside down when you do this).
Hope this helps.

-al

[cayugad]

I always smoke the mold. I light a candle and smoke that mold until it is real dark. Then I paint the mold (using a model makers paint brush) with Rapine Bullet Mold Lube. I have done this for years and never have them stick. Also the temperature of the lead is real important. When casting, make sure the mold and lead is hot.

Also do not tap the mold itself on anything when it is hot. It can deform the mold. Instead, take a wooden hammer handle and tap the handles of the mold where they attach at their swivel.

When you're done casting, leave the last projectile in the mold and let it cool as a unit, from the outside in. The projectile will help to keep the mold from changing. Some say you do not have to do that. It was the way I was taught, and the way I do it.

[bronko22000]

Thanks guys - I appreciate the input. Now all I have to do is find someone who has beeswax for sale. And Dave - you have that bullet lube recipe?

[cayugad]

Its not a recipe. I bought a bottle of the Rapine Bullet Mold Lube about 25 years ago and am still using it. Nasty stuff actually. Black as coal and thick. I paint the inside of the mold and especially the hinges and flats. The mold never sticks and I have never seen the stuff for sale in years...

Go to any craft store and they normally carry bees wax candles. Or hardward stores carry bees wax. We used to rub all the nails and screws when making cabinets with beeswax and it makes them slip in and they do not split the wood as often.. Also Alley yooper has bees. But whether he has bees wax I could not say. A little goes a long way.

WhenI bought my stash four years ago.. I thought six pounds should be enough. Well they sent me two bricks of the stuff..

[bronko22000]

Dave - found your recipe on the other post.
but I could have sworn that there was one out there with besswax, murphy's oil soap, and something else.

[cayugad]

Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz. [/align][/align][/align]I thought you wanted to know what I was painting my mold with when I cast. This is a solid bullet lube formula. It works real good. If it is too thick for you, add more castor oil. Too thin, add more bees wax.[/align]