Pyrodex never really became unpopular. What you are seeing is, with such a variety of different powders hitting the market, all bidding for a market share of the muzzleloader pie, people do not talk about it as much anymore. It used to be, we thought Pyrodex was better then sliced bread. Of course all we had back then was Goex, Elephant and Pyrodex to shoot.
Lots of people still shoot Pyrodex even though it fowls, is dirty, and probably one of the more corrosive powders out there. The problem is, its not exciting like some of the other powders. Some claim 15% more powerful, or no swabbing, easy clean up, ease of loading the pellets... all Pyrodex can claim is, its consistant, goes off, works fine, and needed to be cleaned up ASAP. For some the cost of the new powders is not an issue, they like all the other things the new market monsters are offereing. As I like to remind my friends, beware of hype. And if it works, why change. I stick to what works. Pyrodex is one of them. I shoot a lot of it.
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I agree with Cayquad for the most part Pyrode is the most reliable ,corrosive and at this time most consistant of the sub's since a bit more of it will get the same velocity and its cheaper than the only other one thats reasonably reliable it all sort of balances out except for one thing there are guns [like my Triumph that simly shoot a lot better with 777 I really dont care for that stuff but there is not much I can do about what the gun will shoot minute of angle with. Lee
"And if it works, why change. I stick to what works. Pyrodex is one of them. I shoot a lot of it."
Bingo!!! There has not been a black powder substitute made that is more consistent than Pyrodex. The standard deviation for a 100 grain load is about 18 fps. This isbetter than a lot ofcenter fire ammo. Yes, the gun needs to be cleaned soon after shooting.The other stuff out there will alsorust a gun if it is not cleaned, it just takes a little longer.
If you can't get real black, you just gotta` have Pyrodex for a bunch of them ol sidelocks like my New Englander.
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If you can't get real black, you just gotta` have Pyrodex for a bunch of them ol sidelocks like my New Englander.
I agree, and would add that Pyrodex is the most consistant performing and dependable "substitute" powder I've found. With the government regulations on black powder these days Pyrodex may soon be my only availablechoice for the sidelocks. [:@]
I still prefer BP for them, but it's impossible to find locally now. With gasoline prices so high driving a few hundred miles to get it isn't appealing, so I'll probably pay a hazmat fee and order some this summer while I can still buy it that way.
I agree, and would add that Pyrodex is the most consistant performing and dependable "substitute" powder I've found. With the government regulations on black powder these days Pyrodex may soon be my only availablechoice for the sidelocks.
I use Pryo for PRB's only - which for me I am very bad at at this time - just learning - other than that I use T7-3f in all of my side locks shooting conicals or sabots. It is really efficient and so much cleaner and less corrosive
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Keep on Shooting Muzzleloaders they are a Blast
I use Pryo for PRB's only - which for me I am very bad at at this time - just learning - other than that I use T7-3f in all of my side locks shooting conicals or sabots. It is really efficient and so much cleaner and less corrosive
I haven't been all that pleased with T-7 in my sidelocks. I get home really bad hesitation on ignition. I've tried #11 magnumcaps and musket caps with similar results. In the NewEnglander .50 it does better, but still a hesitation. In the Hawken there is a definate hesitation on every shot. With real BP both fire instantly. I haven't tried Pyrodex in the Hawken yet, but in the NewEnglander .50it rarely hang-fires.
The NewEnglander 12ga barrel likes BP only, but with a 209 conversion nipple T-7 shoots well and gives me good patterns.
I could switch to the 209 ignition and shoot about anything, but it makes capping a slow process, and with the .50 I've had some indications of higher pressures in the barrel (swelled primers and heavier recoil)with the 209 nipple conversion, so I went back to percussion caps.
That is really wierd because I am shooting essentially the same gun and it is instant bang! are you shooting 2f or 3f. I did have problems with 2f in cold weather but really have not had any problems with 3f even at 20 below. The T7-3f is so fine it is very easy to work over under the nipple with a few taps on the side of the stock.
Do any of your breeches have a clean out - or heck even if it doesn't - sometime just for the heck of it remove the nipple and load the T7 up and see if any makes it out under the nipple. Mine, what I do in cold weather,is load about 10 grains then tap the rifle on the side to slide the powder out to the nipple then pour the rest in - this works for 3f but the 2f granuales are to big. And you are right you need to use a mag cap... I use Dynamit Noble 1075+ for hunting and just a regular #11 CCI for shooting paper. Musket caps are not as hot as #11 mag caps - although they do burn longer but at a lower temp.
But as everyne says every rifle is different
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Keep on Shooting Muzzleloaders they are a Blast
I was using 2f T-7. I live in a small town and there are only 2 stores that stock shooting supplies. One keeps no T-7 or Pyrodexat all and the other keeps 2f T-7 or Pyrodex R/Son it's shelves only during hunting season. [:@]
The selection of percussion caps is CCI #11 Magnumor CCI Musket at both places.
Pyrodex is this stuff still popular?
