In my range sessions with the .54 GP, I've been gradually reducing the amount of powder I put in the pan to see what happens. What I've found is that it takes verylittle powder to get reliable ignition. In fact, I get the fastest ignition with the smaller amount. The picture shows how much FFg I was using in the pan for the last ten loads in my last range session. Every shot went off, and (I believe) just about as fast as a caplock.
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I use 4f out of a 3 grain pan flask. Many times it does not throw the whole 3 in the pan. Like you, I get excellent ignition with the small amount of powder.
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In my range sessions with the .54 GP, I've been gradually reducing the amount of powder I put in the pan to see what happens. What I've found is that it takes verylittle powder to get reliable ignition. In fact, I get the fastest ignition with the smaller amount. The picture shows how much FFg I was using in the pan for the last ten loads in my last range session. Every shot went off, and (I believe) just about as fast as a caplock.
Most experts with FL recommend 1/3 pan. If you fill the entire pan, thinking it will "go off better/faster", the spark has to burn down thru the powder then thru the touchhole to ignite the powder in the barrel, so basically your trying keep the powder below the touchhole. Here is some good tips on ignition:
When I want fast ignition with a flinter I use floured blasting powder, bought it for a dollar a pound when a rock quary when broke. Its about the same granual size as baking flour and it does not have any graphite added.
Back when my Grandfather was teaching me to shoot he had a little wood morter and pistle and ground his own from regular black powder. Lee
P.S. If you ever grind any black poeder use only wood or you might set it off .
and only grind a very small amount at a time. I have ground it in a glass bowl I used as the mortar and with a wooden spoon as the pestle I have ground powder down to a very fine grade. I did this when I was testing substitute powders in a flintlock and wanted to see if I could make it all work. I even thought of getting my a real glass mortar & pestle and seeing if the extra fine powder would really make a difference in the speed of the ignition.
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"Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, a total wreck, screaming Yahoo, with a big smile on your face."
I probably use the recommended 1/3 pan.When I was young and foolish (as opposed to old and foolish) I used to fill the pan up and get that 'fuse effect' with an long delay. Now, when I'm hunting, I am constantly checking the pan to make sure the power hasn't flowed over into the flashhole. And I try to always carry my rifle level. I've always used FFFFg in the pan.
__________________ PLEASE NOTE THAT DUE TO THE RISING COST IN AMMO PRICES I WILL NO LONGER BE FIRING A WARNING SHOT.
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It really depends upon the design of the touch hole and its location...
With that type, you don't want to fill the pan...
Both of my flinters have touch holes coned from the inside and the touch hole is higher than the one in the pic...Mine are behind the frizzen when closed, in this situation it is OK to fill the pan as the touch hole can't become plugged with the prime...
One other point....Flintlocks can go off even when there is NO prime in the pan, trust me on this, I've had it happen!!! When you have one of those situations where the first shot doesn't go off and have to stop and knap the frizzen, don't check your sparking with a load in the barrel!!! It's safer to knap with a small brass knapper or change out the flint and unload...I always keep a freshly knapped flint in my patch box, so I don't have to leave the gun loaded and go find one...If you have to knap without a brass knapper, put a round toothpick in the touch hole (or a small feather) to keep sparks away from the main charge...
While I'm on this...If you do have to pull a load, first pour water, oil, solvent down the barrel to wet the main charge...Be Safe, these things are dangerous and require a little more thought than a cartridge gun...
Looks about like the pan charge I like to use, but I use ffffg. I also like to make sure there is a little open space in the charge in the barrel. I use a quill or toothpick in the vent when I charge the barrel to be certain the powder is not crammed up tight against the vent liner. With careful loading a flinter can be just as fast as a caplock, but it does take a careful loading procedure.
Keep posting those pics and I'm going to be shopping for aflint lock again. [&:]
How Much Powder In The Pan?
