RE: Talk to me about powders
Loose powder as you will discover is cheaper. If you shoot a lot, then loose powder is the best way to go, cost wise. As for tuning a rifle, loose powder again is a little better. It gives you a chance to tinker with loads more so then pellets. You would also need to get a powder measure and a pour spout for the jug you purchase.
If you are someone that does not intend to shoot much, perhaps hunt with the rifle several days out of the year, clean it and put it away, pellets might be the way to go. They are more expensive granted, but they are also more user friendly. Once the rifle is sighted in, you simply know how many pellets it takes, and what projectile to use. If you were to burn up a box of pellets a year at around $25.00 that is not the end of the world for most budgets. For the .50 caliber pellets come in 30 & 50 grain size. I would suggest you get a box of both, until you learn what your rifle likes. With the two different sizes it will give you the best options at finding what load you like the best.
Talk Powders... Most stores are luck if they carry Triple Se7en in 2f and Pyrodex RS. Some have APP. Base the powder you use on the availability of that powder in your area. It does you no good to sight in with Shockey Gold and then not be able to purchase another pound of it at the local Wal mart when you realize two days before season you powder is gone. So powders in pellet form are basically the same strength. The difference will be in the fowling you encounter.
Fowling is when unburned powder or burned powder from the ignition of the charge,remains in the bore of the rifle. In some (not all) rifles, some fowling build up near the breech of the rifle is the dreaded crud ring that is so often discussed. Crud rings are there no matter what powder you burn. All powders leave crud rings. Its just that some crud rings can range for very hard and brittle like Triple Se7en, to near non existent with APP and Shockey Gold, and Pinnacle. Pyrodex RS leaves a soft crud ring. All crud rings can be swabbed out of the barrel. Some might take more time then others, but they all can be removed. The important thing is you remove them when you are shooting to sight in your rifle, so you get the most consistent accuracy.
Another thing to consider with powders is the corrosive nature of them. Some powders like Pyrodex RS is far more corrosive then APP, Shockey Gold, Pinnacle, even Triple Se7en. A corrosive powder with be the fastest to start to cause the rusting process in your barrel. All of this means nothing if you swab the barrel and clean the rifle when you shoot it.
For starters, decide whether you like the idea of pellets or loose powder. No matter what you pick, I would start my shooting with Pyrodex RS and or Triple Se7en powder. They are the most consistent in most rifles. Granted some rifles do real well with the other powders, but Pyrodex RS normally works in any gun. Triple Se7en also. Perhaps get both powders and then let your rifle decide what powder it likes.
Above all, read and understand the manufacturer's and powder makers recommendations for load strength. Do not exceed what the manufacturer suggests. This is for your safety and others around you. Granted some of these rifles I am sure could take even more then 150 grains of powder. The question is ... why? 100 grains of powder is a good strong hunting load. Major hunting people for years shot 100 grains and killed moose, elk, you name it, they shot it. Depending on what you hunt and the conditions you hunt in, all of this can effect the size of the powder charge you might want to use.
I would suggest getting some 300 gr XTP's and some Shockwaves in 250 or 300 grain for starters. See how your rifle likes them. I am sure some of the Wolf owners can suggest much better information then I can.. Good luck with your new rifle..
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