Teflon Tape for Breech Plug?

cherokee75 · 11-20-2007, 02:45 PM

I have read posts where people use Teflon tape on the threads of their breech plugs instead of Anti-Sieze. I remember someone saying to use a certainkind for higher temps.Which is the correct tape to use? I vaguely remember the tape/packagingbeing color coded.

sjsfire · 11-20-2007, 03:53 PM

I've read where guys use both the white and pink teflon tape. I've never used it. Also some reccomend still dabbing a little anti sieze on over the tape too.

sabotloader · 11-20-2007, 03:58 PM

cherokee75

I use the tape and I do not use anti-seize at all... but I would recommend you not totally trust jst the tape until you become very good at putting it on and it works for you...

Quote:

More pictures more words - you are probably going to be sorry you asked...

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Is there a significance to the color of the pipe tape?

There is differences..
The white tape, plumbers tape, we see all the time is the thinnest tape out their designed for water lines.
The pink tape is a thicker tape and will with stand a greater temp.
The yellow tape is the thickest tape and is really designed for gasoline pipe.

The tape that you use will depend on how tight your breech plug is as it screws in - if it is so tight that it chews the tape up going in you will to use a thinner tape. I have found the pink tape (TC Breech Plug Tape), or pink tape from Home Depot (less expensive) works great in the Remington"™s - but is too thick for the A&H's they need white.

The tape that is patted down over the face of the breech probably does one or two things... a) a lot of it is blown out the barrel with the first shot but b) some of it is blown up and into the gas seal between the breech plug and the barrel creating an even better seal.

One of the keys when tightening the breech plug is not tear or ball up the tape in the threads and when the to faces meet squeeze the tape but do not crush it or tear it.

Here is some information I wrote up along time ago - it works for me but I can not guarantee it for you so experiment a bit at a time...

Breech Plug Sealing

www.graybeardoutdoors.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=39309

It is my theory that sealing the breech plug should occur at the face of the breech plug against the rear flange of the barrel. If the blowback can be stopped where these two surfaces mate, blown back powder and more importantly the hot gases will be sealed from the threads of the breech plug. These gases and powder residue are responsible for the seizing of your breech plug. These same gases can cut your breech plug and cause a breech plug failure.

This subject came up again on another forum. This the information I posted and it WORKS, anyway on my four inlines. I really don not even worry about seized plugs - I shoot several rounds each trip to the rock pit.

The following picture shows my efforts as explained below.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v130/sabotloader/BreechPlug2.gif

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v130/sabotloader/BreechPlug.jpg

This is one of those things that I have really been fortunate with. When I go to the range I shoot 30-40 shots 100 grains of loose t7 with 209 primers. I shoot 2 Remington"™s and 2 A&H's. With all four of these guns I believe I have the breech plug thing whipped. I do not loosen or even fool around with the breech plug at the range. When I get home and get to it I turn it (them) out with very little pressure. I have tried several anti seize products, and anti seize with tape, even tried the finger tight thing, but have settled on just TC's tape or a comparable Teflon tape from a local building supply - one wrap.

From the two side locks that I built I think I have learned something.... I believe the face of the breech plug should mate up with the face flange of the barrel, if this mating is clean and tight, this mating should stop gasses from going back into the threads of your breech plug. I have blackened the face of my breech plugs screwed them in snuggly against the barrel flange - backed them back out and checked the black to see if contact had been made all the way around. The 2 Remington"™s and one of the A&H's showed that there was good contact all the way around on the plug. One A&H seemed to have a very small non-contact spot. The next thing I do is start wrapping Teflon tape from the barrel end of the plug back to the nipple end. The key for me is that beginning wrap - when I am done wrapping the tape on the barrel end of the plug it should extend out from the plug - I then push and press the tape down on the face of the plug - insert it into the threads and I tighten it snuggly against the barrel flange - not tight - do not want to tear the Teflon, but make it snug because you need to compress the Teflon a bit. If you look down into the barrel with a barrel light you should see the Teflon all the way around the breech plug in the barrel. Your very first shot will drive that excess Teflon back up into any gaps there might be and your threads are sealed... (the Teflon might even cover the flash hole when your done wrapping) Popping one cap will take care of that.

That is my formula it has worked well for me - but every rifle is different so I can't say it will work for you all. I really believe it all comes down to how well the face of the plug and the face of the barrel mate up.

I think the pictures are still on Photobucket... if they are not let men know...

mike

lemoyne · 11-20-2007, 04:05 PM

Some beeach plugs are just to tight for tape I have one like that, and others like the Triumph have a design that is not suited to it[ I believe the pro hunter also has the turn 90degree and remove breach plug. since they have rings like the piston in a combustion moter that dont allow blowback it would be kind of pointless anyhow. Lee

sabotloader · 11-20-2007, 04:14 PM

LEE

I have one inline with a very sharp and very tight threads... The only tape I can use on it is the white tape and only one wrap...

On my breech plugs I do dull the threads and remove the machining burrs by turning in a piece "scotch brite" with a ratchet. By polishing and removing the burrs - the tape does not get torn going in..

The new TC breech plugs with the "O" ring seal do not require anything but taking care of the "O" ring...

cherokee75 · 11-20-2007, 08:13 PM

I think I will stick wiht the grease.

SteveBNy · 11-21-2007, 03:33 AM

I changed last year to SL's method - have not had a stuck plug since - tape only.
Fired as many as 20 shots without touching it.
NO mess, quick clean up.
I am grease free

Steve

wabi · 11-21-2007, 06:31 AM

Had 1 inline that the breech plug stuck every time I shot it. It would back out about 1 full turn easily, then lock up. Used the heaviest tape I had on hand (yellow) and haven't had a sticking problem since!!!!!!!! It threads in and out with some resistance due to the thick tape, but the resistance is consistant and it doesn't lock up.

Flatland Hunter · 11-21-2007, 06:32 AM

I have used only tape for years as well... I use the pick or the yellow... mainly the yellow. I stretch it onto the plugs. Use it on all my Whites and on my Savage. Not stuck plugs... ever.

goatbrother · 11-21-2007, 01:31 PM

If you want to get really fancy and you can find it, try some of the copper or stainless steel teflon tapes. I have tried both and can't realy say they are any better than the pink or white tape. The copper and stainless tapes are rated for very high temps and presures. Cost more than the others too.

That said I've gone back to just grease. Try to find a high temp type of grease, the synthetics seam to work better than the petrolium greases do. I've used White's blue grease for years but now I'm using some Amsoil polymer food grade grease and it is realy good. Best part about the food grade grease is you can put it on your sanwiches if you run out of mayo.