saltflyz

I'm no hardcore...just your casual enthusiast. I have an omega z5 and shoot T7 pellets (2) and 250 shockwaves. I have probably only shot 25 rounds, and I follow the instuctions from the dvd that came with the gun. That is toshoot> wet patch> dry patch. repeat...after sighting in I run 1 bore butter patch through for storage. When ready to shoot again, run a dry and then shoot > wet patch > dry patch etc...I have had pretty good results, but recently have been getting some of the dry patches stuck and end up having to squirt some #13 to loosen it up and get it out (also from the dvd). I do not "coat" the barrel with bore butter. I run 2 patches of bore butter through a year- once after sighting in and once after the season. Plus I remove any residue in the barrel before shooting again. Any insight or tips to help from getting my drys stuck? Thanks for the assist...

rwt4722

If you use short strokes as you work patch in barrel,working a little at a time when you get close to bottom of barrel,you will not have that problem anymore.Good luck and good hunting.


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sabotloader

saltflyz

Are your patches sticking in the bottom of the barrel? if so, it kinda sounds like to me that you might have a bit of crud ring built down there... Other wise of the patch is getting stuck at random places in the barrel and on the up stroke the patch with the lack of lubrication is balling up around the rod or patch jag and getting caught. Using the #13 is adding the lubrication needed to reduce balling and remove the patch...

Solution - might simply be going to a smaller patch in size... What size of patch are you using? Another thought is the jag it self... the new TC supper jags with the long tapered shank will help stop patches from getting caught.



You do not say what you might be using on your wet patches and I would like to change the word "wet" to barely "damp" patches.... I use regular windex and prepare patches before going shooting. Cayugad uses a winshield washer alcohol mix (50/50 mix) both of these solutions clean and evaporate rapidly - much better than #13 if you might be using that.




This a pic diagram of what I am doing...

I too use to use bb in much the same fashion as you are using it I have since switched to another product - a synthetic oil that does all the things BB would do + offer a little more protection... Slpi 2000

Good luck hope you find your answer...

mike

saltflyz

Thanks for the replies..

Mike

I'm using the pre saturated TC #13 patches for the "wet" patches, and the drys are the same size- roughly 3" across. The jag I'm using looks like the pic of the one you posted and the patch seems to be getting stuck on the way out halfway up the barrel.

Thanks again

Gimpy

I use 2 inch diameter patches in my Omega with good results.

sabotloader

saltflyz

Suggestion... do not use the #13 patches - they are really to wet. I would suggest you switch either to the windex or the 50/50 mix.

These might be a better factory patch - but I am not sure how wet they are....

https://secure.tcarms.com/store/index.php/action/item/id/289/prevaction/category/previd/33/prevstart/0/

I use the round patch also and usually do not have any problem with sticking patches, but if you do get the a barrel dry a dry patch can be a problem in almost any gun...

Of course I am biased but I would suggest you try the windex - even take a spray bottle to the range -spray a dry patch with a little bit of windex patch with it on both sides then one pass with a dry patch...

cayugad

The dry patch is getting stuck after your wet patch.. you're taking too long of strokes and leaving moisture behind the patch on the way down.It moves over moisture, absorbs it, and when you pull back it starts to bunch up on the dry spots and there it sticks. It's just as important to work that dry patch in short strokes as it is the wet one. Once you have the bore dry, then you can do longer strokes with a patch. But until you're sure that bore is dry, very short strokes with the patch. If you feel any tightness, back up to a dry part. Or you are using too much patch material. I use chunks of patch material. Nothing pre cut for me.

If this is the first wet patch and your getting stuck .. again your taking too long of a stroke and leaving fowling behind you. As you pull back the excess patch material bunches up against the fowling and its like putting the brakes on a car.

When you swab, short strokes are best. Make sure the area you are about to leave is clean, and in the case of a dry patch.. dry.

mouthcaller

You've gotten great advice from experienced ML shooters, but I have a couple of things to add.

1. Loose the Bore-butter - I think the whole idea of "seasoning your barrel" is silly for shooting sabotloads. If you have the same DVD as I do Greg Ritz is talking about what a high-tec gun the Omega is, capable of shooting the new aerodynamic Shockwaves out to 200-250 yards. The next thing he's telling you to "season your barrel" with bore butter. Excuse me Greg, but I intend to hunt with this high-tec Omega, not fry chicken in it. A friend of mine just had his ML bore rust over the summer "protected" with Bore butter. Forget the whale-blubber bacon grease butter stuff and use Birchwood-Casey Barricade (formally Sheath) to protect the bore from rust. It leaves no oily residue to gum up after the shot. My Omega loads easily and has never rusted.

2. I use the 50:50 isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol and windshield solution as previously mentioned. This removes fouling very well and dries in a snap. Make sure the patches are moist, not dripping wet. The No. 12 solution Greg is trying to sell you is too "wet" and doesn't dry quickly enough for me.

L. Clement

I for one am glad I read this, the Windex will probably save me money and I like the idea of the alcohol for rapid evaporation. I was always wondering why Bore Butter was recommended over other synthetic protestants. I think I may switch in the future as well.

I never have gotten a patch stuck (yet) but did notice that the shorter strokes do work better; they also get the bore cleaner. I also noticed that it sometimes takes more then 1 wet and one dry patch in between shots to get the bore clean.

sabotloader

L. Clement

I personally believe that mouthcaller was a little tough in his statements about bore butter, actually it sounds like he is just repeating the words of a ML expert that does not like the stuff. And his is intitleteled to his beliefs.

I used bb for years and it worked perfectly for me, but i honestly believe it is the manner of application that makes the difference. Convententional wisdom is that you can not season a modern day ordinace steel barrel they way that you could yester-years iron barrel. I believe that is correct, but all metal has pores and I do believe that you aid the barrels ability to reduce fouling through the use of bb, heck I even used it on my trap chokesto help reduce plastic fouling there. It can also reduce the effect of the T7 crud ring at least it has in my bores. But there are risks using it especially if used improperly. It is a water soluable product and it can trap water. I just got out of storage a Lyman Trade Rifle that has been in storage for several years - it was stored after being treated with BB - not even a sign of a problem.

All that said, I do not use bb any longer because I beleive that i have found a better product that does essentially the same thing. Costs a lot more money but in my mind it is worth it, because it adds a little more bore protection and I do not have to worry about tapped water.

I do use the blue windex with ammonia (ammoinia is the striper and the evaporator) and find it works really well for me... I even use it when strip cleaning a rifle - it litterally just melts old T7 residue and blowback off the metal in the breech area.

The key is as mouthcaller says make the patches "moist" - nothing even close to wet...

Good lick in your shooting.... ML shooting will bite you and never let go so get ready for a great experiance which is fun, challenging, rewarding, and frustrating...