Question for Cayugad and others.

[dmurphy317]

I have some Bull Shop 460's that fit a tad too loose and was wanting to try the teflon tape trick to keep them in place. How exactly do you apply the tape? My first guess would be around the top bands but I was wondering what works best for you.

Thanks to all who have some first hand info.

[cascadedad]

Hey David, your shooting a White, correct? Which model and what are the 460s sized to?

The .5045s fit perfect in my U-M. The .5040s shoot good, but I prefer the fit of the .5045s.

I just got some .503s for my Lightning. Hopefully will be able to shoot some tomorrow. I think they are even looser than the .5040s in the U-M. Problem is, Dan doesn't size to .5035 and .5040 is too tight.

I have never tried the Teflon tape, but might in the future.

[dmurphy317]

Cascadedad,
I wish I had a White, I missed out on the deal at Sportsmans Warehouse and could have kicked myself. I am shooting the BS 460's sized to .503. My bore is .5015 to .502. I really liked the way the No Excuse 460 at .503 shot in the CVAMagbolt and Lyman GPH I have and ordered the same thing in the Bull Shop's but for some reason they are loose and can be shaken off the powder fairly easily. I guess I need to double check the diameter on them. I ordered some sized to .501 and some sized .503, maybe they marked the box's wrong. The .501's are for my kids rifles, they are both .500. Another thing I just thought of is that I was shooting them on a somewhat warm day, I wonder if the heat combined with the lube caused them to slide easier than if it was cooler.

[Pioneer2]

Teflon plumber's tape is an old trick bullet casters use to wrap bullets to excede 3000fps and eliminate leading.Make sure you wrap the tape to tighten in the rifling ie most ML should be a right hand twist so either place the tape on a hard surface and with the base of the bullet towards you roll it on the tape from left to right.You'll have to experiment to get the desired thickness and tape length."The Art of Bullet Casting "is the book by Wolff Publishing long since out of print.Took me two years to find a copy on E-Bay.........Good Luck Harold

[cayugad]

I use simple white teflon plumbers tape.

Although, try fowling the barrel with a dirty powder first and then do not swab the barrel. Sometimes just that heavy fowl will take care of the problem. When I want a heavy fowl I dump Goex or Pyrodex RS down the barrel.. about 80 grains, then push a cotton patch on top of all that and fire it off. Then load your conicals.

[dmurphy317]

The bullets do stay in place if I don't swab. What I want to try is to keep it in place when setup for hunting from a clean barrel. I understand the need to get the wrap the right direction but do I need it over the entire bearing length or just at the top bands?

[Pioneer2]

Wrap the entire bearing surface and don't be concerned if it mangles a little being loaded this is normal and it will increase the velocity somewhat as well......................Harold

[cayugad]

Be sure and test teflon wrapped bullets. Sometimes, they do not shoot real accurate. Other times they work just fine.

Another thing you can wrap them in is a high quality white paper with a high cotton rag content. Smear the paper with lube on the outside only, and it will not burn. When you shoot, it will be suddenly floating in the air in front of you about 10 yards..

[sabotloader]

dmurphy317

I ordered some sized to .501 and some sized .503, maybe they marked the box's wrong.

That really is possible... i just got an order of 500 bullets from Bull Shop and there wassome odd marked bullets - I did mic em all and they were what I ordered but a couple of boxes indicated differently.....

Question and using your quote:

The bullets do stay in place if I don't swab. What I want to try is to keep it in place when setup for hunting from a clean barrel.

I am reading this as if you shoot a "clean" barrel your first shot when you are hunting is that correct? And when I say clean I am assuming squeaky clean.... My normal practice, and remember I shoot T7, I shoot a few rounds before the season to validate that I am sighted in. Normally I do not field strip and clean the gun until after hunting season - I DO clean the barrel with windex patches and slightly oil the barrel - but I am always shooting a somewhat fouled barrel. (now there are conditions that might make me field strip and clean - but I will foul the barrel in the shop with caps or primers before I load it. This may not make any sense but in my mind it does - wish I could expalin it better....

Cdad mic'ed a bunch of .503 No Excuses I sent him and he was surprised with the results... I can not remember what he got for measurements... I mic'ed the new .503 Bull Shops I got last night and they measured .503

Murph I have a bunch of .504 - 460's do you want me to send you a couple to try in your barrel for fit?

Cdad

Did you notice these new Bull Shops have a different ring pattern that the older ones.... Are these from Dan's new molds....

[dmurphy317]

When I work up loads I do test to see if the first shot of a clean barrel shoots to the same POI as the next shot without swabbing.that wayI will know how it does and if I need to foul the barrel before hunting with a particular load. I'm not opposed to doing this it just seems that if I could simulate a fouled barrel senerio without all that fouling in the barrel it would lower the chance of corrosion during a multi day hunt in variable weather conditions. And it gives me another reason to do more testing and shooting. My normal procedure for fouling the bore is tofire a Cleanshot pellet (I have some of the old ones left over that didn't shoot very well) with some form of wading over it to create some back pressure and keep the pellet at the breach. This usually works good enough and the fouling is cleaner than if I use 777.

As for your offer of .504's, sure I would be happy to try a few before ordering more from Dan. I'll PM you my info.