T/C Renegade

Tenmilephenom · 03-19-2007, 10:04 AM

Now that I have my inlines ready to go, just waiting for the snow to go and warm up alittle before I start getting to the range(U.P. of Mich), I Have a renegade hunter that I got back from a guy I sold to a few years back. When I got it back it was still loaded. I unloaded it and cleaned it but my patches still come out with a slight redish tint.Probably rust. How can I tell if my barrel is still shootable? Should I take my Hammer and trigger apart and clean these also. I'm new to this part, dont want to take it apart and not get it back together. I want to make sure my barrel is in good shape first. When I first hade this gun I really liked it and hope I can salvage it. Thanks Guys

lonewolf5348 · 03-19-2007, 10:16 AM

I would say if the gun was loaded but never fired you will be in good shape.I would try to locate some j@b bore paste and with a patch jag go at it a few times let say 50 strokes and see what comes out of the barrel.
There is a lock screw on the left side of the lock and the lock will remove from the stock clean it and reinstall is a easy task just don't overtighten the lock screw ,seem t/c stocks are or will split if you try to send them home.I myself use 2 fingers on a screwdriver and when the screw stops that it.

cayugad · 03-19-2007, 10:28 AM

Once you were kind enough to unload it for him... (WOW!!) Get a bore light and check the bore. The problem is, you will not be able to see all the way back into the cone of the breech. So you are going to have to keep cleaning in there.

If it is a .54 caliber, a small flashlight (the smalled they have) that hold one AAA battery will slip down the barrel of the rifle and allow you to look at the bore in great detail. There is supposed to be a smaller LED flashlight out there that will go down the .50 caliber and allow you to look at the bore. I have not found one yet, but when I do, I will own one of them as well. The bore lights I have bought in the past were junk to say the least. They worked for a short time then started blinking out, then finally did not want to even come on and STAY on.

Another trick is take some tin foil, and roll that into a small ball. The ball has to be smaller then the bore of the rifle. Drop that down the bore and shine a flashlight to the side and it will allow you a limited look at the bore to see if it is full of rust and pitting.

[hr]

Get some J-B Bore Paste first, and oil the bore well. Then a tight fitting patch and jag combination on a good solid range rod. A helper is a good thing here. With the barrel secure, start scrubbing the bore of the rifle with the J-B Bore paste. It will help to remove any and all rust and deposits in the barrel. After you clean it with about 50 strokes of the bore paste, changing patches and adding more bore paste every 15 strokes or so, then clean the devil out of the rifle. A good water bath, and finally some solvent patches. They will be coming up BLACK but do not worry, they will clean up. Keep with the patches until they come up light gray. Then another hot water bath with plenty of dish soap. A little trick is put some liquid dish soap right down the bore when you start to siphon that water up and down in the barrel. Then extra foam and soap will get into the pores and pits of the barrel and really clean it out. After the soap bath, then take the barrel outside and dump boiling hot water through it until all the soap is rinsed out of the barrel. Wear leather gloves.

Now take the barrel while still hot, and put a high quality gun oil on an patch and liberally swab the bore. When the barrel cools it will suck that oil back up into the pores of the rifle. Now you can check it again with a bore light or a tin foil mirror.

If you have any doubts of the integrity of the rifle, take it to a qualified gun smith. Have him check the rifle with a bore scope for damage and excessive rust. Also be sure to pull the nipple and check the threads of the nipple and the bolster for rust. If the threads are bad, this could cause the nipple to fly out and be a projectile, and they are aimed at the shooter 99% of the time when they come out. So check those threads. Also check the nose of the hammer and make sure that is not all rusted and weakened. That can cause you problems.

gleason.chapman · 03-19-2007, 12:46 PM

Quote:

ORIGINAL: Tenmilephenom

Now that I have my inlines ready to go, just waiting for the snow to go and warm up alittle before I start getting to the range(U.P. of Mich), I Have a renegade hunter that I got back from a guy I sold to a few years back. When I got it back it was still loaded. I unloaded it and cleaned it but my patches still come out with a slight redish tint.Probably rust. How can I tell if my barrel is still shootable? Should I take my Hammer and trigger apart and clean these also. I'm new to this part, dont want to take it apart and not get it back together. I want to make sure my barrel is in good shape first. When I first hade this gun I really liked it and hope I can salvage it. Thanks Guys

My son when he was 16 didn't clean his knight disc for a year after he fired it and it was a mess. I used brake cleaner and a bore brush and cleaned it up. There we pits in the barrel when I was done but I was able to shoot it and it held a 3 inch group at 100 yards with XTP sabots. The breech plug was very difficult to remove. I had to pound it out with a socket and a 2 lb hammer, but I got if out. I soaked the rifle barreland the bolt in brake cleaner for a couple of days, then cleaned it up with a bore brush. The gun still shoots good, but it is not as accurace as it one was. Chap Gleason

Tenmilephenom · 03-19-2007, 03:41 PM

Well I spent about an hour scrubbing the bbl with hot soapy water-brake cleaner-T/C #13-butchs bore shine-and oiled good and put it away. It is much better than before. This weekend I'm goint to shoot it. I've got 460 and 495 no excuses along with maxi hunters to try. i have T7 2f and 3f and pyro select to try.Also am going to try the same loads in my Black Diamomd. Should I start with a low charge like about 75gr ahd go up from there? Thanks

cayugad · 03-19-2007, 05:42 PM

Try 75 grains in the Black Diamond. The No Excuses 460 without a wad shoot great out of mine.

Shooting that Renegade will actually help the rifle clean itself. A lot of stuff is blown out a barrel besides the projectile when you shoot. Good luck shooting the rifle.

sabotloader · 03-19-2007, 06:15 PM

Tenmilephenom

In my Renegade - the 1/48 Renegade i started with 70 grains of T7-3f and ended up using 80 grains. I chose the 3f powder because I wanted to be sure that the powder gets out under the nipple. I, in the past, have used 2f but when it really gets cold I always do not get ignition especially if there is a dead air space between the nipple and the charge.

I do use a wad, a nitro card .125x.510 available from Track of the Wolf. I have chosen to do so since I am using 7-3f and it burns so hot I do not want to melt or distort the bottom of the bullet and I certainly do not want to have melted lead remain in the barrel, and for two other reasons... 1) I am one of those guys that might leave the rifle loaded for a couple of weeks if the weather is favorable and I do not want the load contaminated with bullet lubricant that might melt or get runny and migrate down the lands and grooves and 2) the card insulates the bottom of the lead bullet.

When I asked these two questions a few months ago Underclocked made the suggestion of the card and recommended the sizes. They are certainly working for me. And there is one added benefit as you push them down the barrel with the bullet they tend to remove fouling making it easier to load shot after shot...

Check this post and you will find a recenttarget from my 1/48 TC Renegade barrel... it is only 50 yards but it sure shows promise...

http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/tm.aspx?m=2034193