Silent ball discharger

take1a · 03-14-2007, 07:31 AM

Reading my TC Scout manual about pulling a ball/projectile in the event of a hangfire. Their method of soaking the breech end of the barrel in water for 1/2 hour before pulling the ball could end a day at the range. Anybody use the "silent ball discharger" (the one that uses a CO2 cartridge)? Like it? Not?

Not sure if they make one for the TC Scout anymore. I can find the adaptor, but not the original discharger part.

charlie brown · 03-14-2007, 08:12 AM

If there is a hangfire, there should be no need to pull the load! From what I understand, a hangfire is when there is a gap between the primer going off and the charge going off. For example, maybe there was just a touch of moisture or lube in the bottom of the barrel or something, and the powder got a little damp and didn't ignite right away. Or there may be a gap between the powder column and the primer, and the complete charge didn't ignite right away.

The only time I would think a person would need to pull a bullet would be if you forgot to put powder downthe bore before the bullet, or if there was already a LARGE amount of moisture in the barrel anyway, which would neutralize the powder in the first place and you would have a mess on your hands!

The best thing I could think of if you have a misfire and you know there is powder in the barrel is to let is set for a few minutes in a safe place. Then remove the nipple and pour a little bit of powder into the firing channel from your flask, and get some packed down in there with a nipple pick, then replace the nipple and try again. You may have a low powered load, but it should be enough to get the bullet out of the bore.

Hope this helps some.

Later,

Marcial

cayugad · 03-14-2007, 08:41 AM

If you get a hangfire, there is no need to pull the charge. Put on a second cap and it will probably fire. One thing to rememeber, when you get a hangfire, it is a good idea to check the load position and make sure it did not move up the barrel, even a little, off the powder charge. This could be a barrel obstruction. So take your ramrod, check the projectile in the breech, re-cap and let it go. It should go off.

If that still does not work and make the rifle fire, back out/remove your nipple. Then take some powder in your fingers, and a nipple pick and pack some powder down the nipple port opening. Replace the nipple, cap it, and it will fire this time.

Many hunters while on stand will pull the nipple on their cap locks, pack a small amount of powder in there, and put the nipple back. This does two things, it assures the rifle will go off, AND it gives that monster buck a chance to walk out in front of you 20 yards away, lookyou in the eye as you sit there with a rifle that will not fire, and walk off in a broadside manner. Usually deer do this because they like to see hunters, wrap their rifle around a tree and storm off into the woods.

shotgun31 · 03-14-2007, 09:06 AM

I use a CO2 discharger, and like it. It works great!

My traditional ML has a history of being obstinate, refusing to go off if I don't do my part, so I have a lot of experience with hang fires. All of thesuggestions on previous threads aregood, but I'll add one.

RWS 1045 caps.

My Uberti-made hawken is a cantankerous old beast that when I first had it wouldn't go off with any reliability. I had to completely de-grease the nipple/breach plug with solvent, I'd add a pinch of 4FG powder under the remington cap, then it would go off.

TOTWsuggested the RWS cap, and it solved my hang fire problem.Doesn't any more, and I treat this difficult-to-manage beastlike any other cartridgerifle. I know it will go off so I don't worry about it any more.

Might be other caps like the RWS 1045, I just don't know about them. Maybe someone reading this can offer more advice.

I use the CO2powered device to unload the rifle, because it's quiet. Avoidsnoise either in the field (couresy for other hunters) or in town.

JMHO.
Shotgunman

liquidorange · 03-14-2007, 04:09 PM

i have found that using the co-2 discharger doesnt always get all the gack out of the barrel on my caplock. there seems to be some crud left over from the pyrodex between the nipple hole and going into the bottom of the barrel. you would think it all gets blown out but on my gun not always. if i cant shoot it off and use the toool to dischage i have to do a full cleaning to be safe.

take1a · 03-14-2007, 08:59 PM

Thanks for the input on the hangfires everyone. I'll try the solutions you shared if my Scout is finicky at the range.

Shotgun31: thanks for the info on the RWS #11 caps. You mentioned RWS 1045 caps specifically. I googled for those, but could only come up with RWS 1055, and RWS 1075. Are these similar to the 1045?

Also, I'd better check with my local gun shop, cuz ordering caps on line means a hazmat fee (sh**).

By the way, came across a good article on misfires on the October Country website, and they said the RWS caps are hotter than the CCI magnum caps.

cayugad · 03-14-2007, 09:10 PM

You want the RWS 1075 Dynamite Nobel caps. They are a true magnum cap in my opinion. After them I always get the CCI Magnum #11 caps. Those two have always served me well.

take1a · 03-14-2007, 09:17 PM

Thanks for the info Cayugad. Dang, this site is a great place to get information. It'd take me years to learn all this stuff, but you veteran mzlr's out there are really helpful. Al

Rebel Hog · 03-14-2007, 09:19 PM

Quote:

ORIGINAL: shotgun31

I use the CO2powered device to unload the rifle, because it's quiet. Avoidsnoise either in the field (couresy for other hunters) or in town.

JMHO.
Shotgunman

10-4! Same here.....

Sharp Shooter · 03-15-2007, 06:17 AM

My ball discharger is the best investment I ever made. After a hunt I can blow my charge out, at the range, clear the nipple, ect. I love it and it is well worth the money.