I've no idea what revolver you have as I never saw a 1858 Confederate Navy .44 caliber Revolver. I have owned a 1851 Navy revolver, and a 1858 Army revolver, but I was not aware of a 1858 Navy revolver other then the double action Starr Revolver made in 1858. But I think the Starr was a .36 caliber. So you have me stumped here.
If this Revolver is steel framed with a top strap, they are a little more rigid. They have a stronger frame and usually can accept a little stronger charge. Not that you have to do that. If this is a brass frame (which was common in the confederate forces due to lack of steel towards the end of the war) then you have to be much more gentle with the powder charges. If this revolver has no top strap, as was common with Navy revolvers,then you need to again, reduce the powder charges in them or you can actually damage the frame of them. Navy revolvers I normally shot with only 20 grains of powder. I personally ruined one Navy revolverin my youth...[
I've always found that the revolvers shoot most accurate with a non maximum load. The revolver I am currently shooting has a max charge capability of 35 grains of 3f powder. I get best accuracy with 25-30 grains. Also when shooting them, be sure and cover the end of the cylinder after you have it loaded. Even if you are using wads in the cylinders. Please, cover the chambers with Crisco or bore butter or something. Otherwise you run the risk of a chain fire. Chain fires are dangerous. That was how I ruined my first rifle.
After you have fired the cylinders, pull the cylinder from the revolver. Wipe the back side of the cylinder. Also be sure you wipe the cylinder support rod and the frame off between loadings. This rod is the one that slides forward to hold the cylinder in place and on which it rotates. If you keep that clean you can spend more time on the range. If you fail to wipe these areas off between loading, The gun will fowl out, get to where it will not line up right, and even be hard to pull the cylinder support rod out at the end of the day.
At the end of the day, an easy way to clean the revolver is to take the wood grips off, and throw the disassembled thing into some dish soap and water. Or you can leave the grips one, and then, with a small brush, start scrubbing. Pay close attention to the nipples you remove and they cylinder. Be sure and use a good small brush in there and get that cylinder nice and clean. Then rinse it will. Also where the hammer falls forward into the frame, use Q-tips and make sure you get that area nice and clean. Or the next time you examine your prize, you will find rust there. When you put it all back together, be generous with the oil. Oil the revolver down real well. I like to really spray it one thick and then lay the revolver out on a cotton cloth and basically let it drain.
Revolvers are a lot of fun, but a real pain to clean. Maybe that's why I do not shoot mine as much as I should. If you could post a link or a picture to your revolver, I would sure like to see them. You will find them very accurate, and a lot of fun to shoot. I shoot mine (1858New Army .44 caliber with target sights)with .451 roundball and #10 percussion caps (Remington). I like Goex of the powder as I get the best results with that. I also have some small conicals I can load in the revolver, but they are not as accuate as the ball.