let them all rust

cayugad · 11-13-2006, 01:00 PM

I took the old mower blade to the shop and with a grinder took it back to bare metal. I then took Birchwood Casey Bore Scrubber and wiped the metal clean of all fowling. I then took Birchwood Casey Sheath and protected the metal. I then took isopropyl alcohol and wiped the Sheath off the metal. This would be as exact to the manner in which I treat my rifles before and while hunting.

I then marked out 14 separate spots on the blade to be tested. The powders were in order 1-14

1= Goex 2f
2= Goex 3f
3= Swiss 2f
4= Swiss 3f
5= Kik 3f
6= Pyrodex RS
7= Pyrodex P
8= Triple Se7en 2f
9= Triple Se7en 3f
10= American Pioneer Powder 3f
11= Black Mag 3
12= Goex 4f
13= metal untreated
14= metal treated with Kroll Oil

It should be pointed out in order not to contaminate any of the testing areas, each area was covered with a specimen cup (lower corner of the picture) so that the flash from the flame next to an area could not drive over. Also the tested were conducted outside where it is 34 degrees, and very damp... just like I hunt in.

After all the areas were fired, I then took a Q-tip, and moistened it with Kroll Oil and scribed between all test areas ... again, to make sure no contamination for the other powder would effect the rusting properties. In #13 the metal was left bare just to see the effect the damp weather might have played on it. In #14 I wiped that area clean with Kroll Oil so that it would simulate a clean protected barrel in the same environment.

The blade was placed out in my wood working shop which is unheated. It is off the ground in a cool dry space where nothing but the powder's own chemical reactions should effect it. I will check the blade each day to note the condition of the burn marks. Since the powders were ignited at approximately noon, I will use that time frame to recheck.

Any other ideas you would like to try? I have no other kinds of powder around the house.

cayugad · 11-13-2006, 01:02 PM

also any comments on how the testing might be better done would be appreciated. I hope the results will answer some questions some of us have. A mower blade I should think would rust faster then a rifle barrel? Or would they rust at the same speed? Another interesting question. So let me know.

lemoyne · 11-13-2006, 01:48 PM

Very interesting, I used seperate little plates when I did it, but I have never been able to get any Black Mag so I shall be especally interested in how the BM reacts. Lee

statjunk · 11-13-2006, 02:35 PM

Cayugad,

If you're not a scientist working in a lab, I think you missed your calling. I'm curious to see the results. I'll try to give my buddy a call tonight to ask him your question regarding the difference in metal of a gun barrel and a lawn mower blade.

Tom

statjunk · 11-13-2006, 02:37 PM

Only question I have is did you use the same amount of powder for each test strip?

Tom

cayugad · 11-13-2006, 03:36 PM

I did try to keep all amounts close to each other. I put the powder on a paper index card,then with a clean popsicle wood stick took the blunt end and scooped out what appeared an equal amount. That was placed against the outside edge of a clean plastic specimen cup and ignited. You can notice some of the curve of the cup in the second photo. The trouble is the wind was blowing outside and some of the powder reacted bad to the wind, but was ignited ASAP. Also surprising, I was ignited with a long nose grill lighter, and some of that powder takes a lot of flame to ignite it. I was kind of surprised how hard it was to light some of that off.

Roskoe · 11-13-2006, 04:01 PM

Quite a few blued rifle barrels are made of a high carbon steel called 4150. I would suspect the finish of the metal would have more effect on corrosion than the type of chrome moly steel (a high polish being less prone to corrosion than a rough finish). One test I would be interested in seeing is a comparison of blued steelvs. stainless steel.

statjunk · 11-14-2006, 06:17 AM

Cayugad,

I talked to my buddy. He claims that there is very little similarity between the metal in a standard muzzle loader barrel and a lawn mower blade. I asked the question and he just went off. He started talking about all kinds of oxides and the heating temps and flex and what not. I honestly didn't understand a damn thing he was saying. He is a prototype builder for GM Truck chassis. He designs and builds the prototype machines that make the chassis.

In the end he claims there is little comparison.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

Tom

cayugad · 11-14-2006, 09:02 AM

Not a problem, they should still rust at a somewhat same rate on metal. Maybe they will rust faster.. who knows. Thanks for the information,

lemoyne · 11-14-2006, 01:05 PM

cayugad, an other one [which I have not found time for yet] is to take un burned powder add a drop of water and see how soon it rusts. What brought this to mind is some of the people that leave the gun loaded for along time at deer camp or like here where we have two Muzzleloader seasons 6 weeks apart sometimes. Lee